Founded in the early 12th century, Fountains Abbey – lying alongside the River Skell just to the southwest of Ripon in North Yorkshire – became one of the most prosperous of the many Cistercian abbeys in Europe.
However, in 1539, Henry VIII and his henchman destroyed Fountains Abbey at the time of the Dissolution of the Monasteries. With its wealth plundered, and the lead roofing removed and sold, Fountains Abbey soon slipped into complete disrepair and became a ruin – a ghost of its former glory. Today the ruins, cared for in a partnership between the National Trust and English Heritage, receive hundreds of thousands of visitors. I wonder if, like me, many of them wonder what it must have looked like in its heyday, and perhaps, in the silence, imagine for a fleeting moment the plainsong of monks at prayer.
But the community at Fountains comprised both monks and lay people who tended the fields and looked after flocks of sheep (the Cistercians built their wealth on wool) leaving monks time for daily mediation. The abbey also took in visitors and the sick, and several of the ruined buildings were used for this purpose. Today there is a small museum in what was once the Porter’s Lodge, with a timeline of the abbey’s development and ultimate downfall. At it’s dissolution it was valued at around £1160, the equivalent today of tens of millions of pounds.
Most of the buildings have lost their roof, but one – the Cellarium (storeroom or undercroft) – has an impressive and beautiful vaulted ceiling. Whether there originally was glass in the windows, I’m not sure although I would expect so.
Close-by are the Guest House Bridge and monks’ latrine building – the Reredorter, strategically positioned over the River Skell in which effluent flowed away, without contaminating any sources of drinking water.
The Refectory opens on to the Cloister, across from the Church and its impressive Tower.
And then there’s the Church and Tower, dominating the whole site. No wonder that Fountains Abbey has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
In the 18th century, the pools and gardens of Studley Royal were created to the east of the abbey ruins, where visitors could stroll and take in the views. At another Cistercian Abbey – Rievaulx – not that far away from Fountains Abbey, a viewing terrace was also built in the 18th century to facilitate access to the abbey ruins.
When we first arrived at Fountains there were several parties of school children, a number of whom were making the most of being in the open air, running around and making rather a cacophony. After about 20 minutes, however, peace descended and we could then appreciate the magnificence of this ruined abbey in the relative silence it demanded. Very spiritual.
I wrote this post just after we made our first visit to Fountains Abbey in July 2013. And then, the following year at the end of March, we stopped by on our way north to visit our daughter and her family in Newcastle.
And although we moved to the northeast over four years ago, we hadn’t made another visit to Fountains until a couple of days ago on the 2nd.
On both previous occasions, the weather was overcast, and on the March 2014 visit particularly cold. Not so this week. With a promising weather forecast ahead of the journey south (a round trip of 152 miles), we set out from home around 09:15 arriving at Fountains just before 11:00. In time for a welcome cup of coffee in the National Trust’s excellent restaurant.
While there was some low cloud and mist on the drive south, it didn’t last much south of Durham on the A1(M). We did wonder whether the weatherman had got it wrong. Oh ye of little faith!
It was a glorious day, hardly a cloud in the sky, and although there was a cool breeze at times, it was a perfect Spring day.
And how different the ruins of the abbey looked in the bright sunshine, and the water gardens at Studley Royal. Here is a small selection of photographs I took on Wednesday. There’s a full album of photos here.
A balanced diet . . . 