Celebrating the humble spud . . .

Not so humble really. The potato is an incredibly important crop worldwide (the fourth, after maize, rice, and wheat), with a production of 376 million metric tonnes in 2021. China is the leading producer, with 95.5 million metric tonnes, followed by India, Ukraine, Russia, and the USA.

Native to and a staple food in the Andean countries of South America, the potato spread to Spain in the 16th century [1, 2] and the rest of the world afterwards.

It’s no wonder that Peru championed the International Day of the Potato (decreed by the United Nations in December 2023 [3]) which is being celebrated today.

I thought this would be an excellent opportunity to reflect on my own journey with potatoes over 20 years in the 1970s and 1980s.


Fifty years ago (in May 1974) I had just returned to Lima after collecting potatoes for three weeks in the north of Peru (Department of Cajamarca), accompanied by my driver, Octavio.

A farmer in Cajamarca discusses his potato varieties with me, while my driver Octavio writes a collecting number on each tuber and a paper bag with a permanent marker pen.

A few months earlier, at the beginning of February, I’d travelled to Cuyo Cuyo (Department of Puno in southern Peru) to make a study of potato varieties in farmers’ fields on the ancient terraces there (below).

So what was I doing in Peru?

I’d joined the International Potato Center (CIP) in Lima the previous year, in January 1973 [4] as an Associate Taxonomist while continuing with my PhD research. And I found myself, a few months later—in May—travelling with with my colleague Zosimo Huamán (right) to the northern departments of Ancash and La Libertad where, over almost a month, we collected many indigenous potato varieties—the real treasure of the Incasthat were added to CIP’s growing germplasm collection. Here are just a few examples of the incredible diversity of Andean potato varieties in that collection. Maybe I collected some of these.

Source: International Potato Center (CIP)

In October 1975, I successfully defended my PhD thesis (The evolutionary significance of the triploid cultivated potato, Solanum x chaucha Juz. et Buk.) at the University of Birmingham, where my co-supervisor, potato taxonomist and germplasm pioneer Professor Jack Hawkes (right) was head of the Department of Botany.

During my time in Lima, Dr Roger Rowe (left, then head of CIP’s Breeding and Genetics Department) was my local supervisor.

Fifty years after I first met Roger in Peru, we had a reunion on the banks of the Mississippi in Wisconsin last year.

After the University of Birmingham congregation on 12 December 1975, with Jack Hawkes on my right, and Professor Trevor Williams (who supervised my MSc dissertation in 1971) on my left.

I published three papers from my thesis. Click on any title image below (and most others throughout this post) to read the full paper.

There’s an interesting story behind the publication of this third paper from my thesis.

I originally sent a manuscript to Economic Botany, probably not long after I’d submitted the others to Euphytica.

I received an acknowledgment from Economic Botany, but then it went very quiet for at least a year.

Anyway, towards the end of 1978 or early 1979 I received—quite out of the blue—a letter from the then editor-in-chief of Euphytica, Professor AC Zeven. He told me he’d read my thesis, a copy of which had been acquired apparently by the Wageningen University library. He liked the chapter I’d written about an ethnobotanical study in Cuyo-Cuyo, and if I hadn’t submitted a paper elsewhere, he would welcome one from me.

It was about that same time I also received a further communication from the incoming editor of Economic Botany, who had found papers submitted to the journal up to 20 years previously and still waiting publication, and was I still interested in continuing with the Economic Botany submission, since he was unable to say when or if my manuscript might be considered for publication. I immediately withdrew the manuscript and, after some small revisions to fit the Euphytica style and focus, sent the manuscript to Professor Zeven. It was published in February 1980.


I returned to Lima just before the New Year 1976, knowing that CIP’s Director General, Dr Richard Sawyer (right), had already approved my transfer to CIP’s Outreach Program (later renamed Regional Research). I relocated to Costa Rica in Central America in April 1976 (living and working at the Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center, CATIE in Turrialba), establishing a program to adapt potatoes to the warm humid tropics. I became leader of CIP’s regional program (or Regional Representative) in late 1977.

However, the tropical adaptation objective per se didn’t exactly endure. The potato trials were almost immediately attacked by bacterial wilt (caused by Ralstonia solaneacearum, formerly known as Pseudomonas solanacearum) even though no susceptible crops such as tomatoes had been planted on the CATIE experiment station in recent years. We subsequently discovered that the bacterium survived in a number of non-solanaceous weed hosts.

Screening for bacterial wilt resistance in CATIE’s experiment station.

I’ve posted earlier about our research on bacterial wilt and finding tolerance to the disease in a potato clone (not quite a commercial variety) known simply as Cruza 148.

Plant pathologist Professor Luis Carlos Gonzalez (right, from the University of Costa Rica in San José) and I also studied how to control the disease through a combination of tolerant varieties and soil and weed management.

We published these two papers, the first in the international journal Phytopathology, and the second in the Costarrican journal Fitopatologia.


During the late 1970s, CIP launched an initiative aimed at optimising potato productivity, jointly led by Chilean agronomist Dr Primo Accatino and US agricultural economist Dr Doug Horton. Contributing to this initiative in Costa Rica, I worked with potato farmers to reduce the excessive use of fertilizers, and fungicides to control the late blight pathogen, Phytophthora infestans. It was then (and probably remains) a common misconception among farmers that more input of fertilizer or fungicide, the better would be the outcome in terms of yield or disease control. What a fallacy! Our small project on fertilizer use was published in Agronomía Costarricense.

During the five years I spent in Costa Rica, my colleagues in the Ministerio de Agricultura y Ganadería (MAG) and I screened germplasm sent to us by CIP breeders in Lima for resistance to late blight, and common potato viruses like PVX, PVY, PLRV.

Ing. Jorge Esquivel (MAG) and me screening potatoes for virus resistance in a field trial on the slopes of the Irazú volcano in Costa Rica, while my assistants Jorge Aguilar and Moisés Pereira check plants nearby.


In 1977, Dr John Niederhauser (right, an eminent plant pathologist who had worked on late blight in Mexico for the Rockefeller Foundation before becoming an international consultant to CIP) and I worked together to develop and implement (from April 1978) a cooperative regional potato program, PRECODEPA, in six countries: Mexico, Guatemala, Honduras, Costa Rica, Panama, and the Dominican Republic. Funded by the Swiss Agency for Development and Cooperation, SDC (and for the next 25 years or so, and expanded to more countries in the region), the network was a model for regional collaboration, with members contributing research based on their particular scientific strengths.

Clean seed tubers are one of the most important components for successful potato production, and technologies to scale up the multiplication of clean seed were contributed by CIP to PRECODEPA. My colleague from Lima, Jim Bryan (an Idaho-born seed production specialist) joined me in Costa Rica in 1979 for one year, and together we successfully developed several rapid multiplication techniques, including stem cuttings and leaf node cuttings, and producing a technical bulletin (published also in Spanish).

And we showed that it was possible to produce one tonne in a year from a single tuber. Read all about that effort here.

I can’t finish this section about my time at CIP without mentioning Dr Ken Brown (left), who was head of Regional Research.

Ken, a cotton physiologist, joined CIP in January 1976 as head of Regional Research, just at the time Steph and I returned to Lima after I’d completed my PhD. He was one of the best program managers I have worked for, keeping everything on track, but never micro-managing. I learnt a great deal from Ken about managing staff, and getting the best out of them.

At the end of November 1980, I returned to Lima expecting to be posted to the Philippines. Instead, in March 1981, I resigned from CIP and accepted a lectureship in plant biology at the University of Birmingham, continuing potato research there, as well as working on several legume species.

I look back on those formative CIP years with great appreciation: for all that I learned about potatoes and potato production, the incredible scientists from around the world I met and worked with, and the many friendships I made.


Jack Hawkes retired from the university in September 1982, having left behind his large collection of wild potatoes accumulated during several expeditions to the Americas, and a legacy of potato research on which I endeavoured to build.

You can read all about Jack’s many expeditions, view many original photos, and watch several videos dating back to 1939 by clicking on the image below.

I soon realised there were few opportunities to continue research with Jack’s collection. It was almost impossible to secure funding. But I could offer short-term projects for MSc and PhD students.

Dave Downing was the technician managing the potato collection at Birmingham.

One MSc student, Susan Juned, studied the diversity in Solanum chacoense Bitt., a wild potato species from Argentina and Paraguay, in relation to in situ conservation opportunities.

Two MSc students from Uganda, Beatrice Male-Kayiwa and Nelson Wanyera evaluated resistance to potato cyst nematode (Globodera pallida) in wild potatoes from Bolivia. We asked Jack Hawkes to advise on the choice of germplasm to include, since he had made the collections in that country in the 1970s. Beatrice and Nelson worked at Rothamsted Experiment Station (now Rothamsted Research) in Hertfordshire with the late Dr Alan Stone.

Two PhD students, Lynne Woodwards and Ian Gubb, studied the lack of enzymic browning (potatoes turn brown when they are cut) in wild potatoes, Series Longipedicellata Buk., and one tetraploid (2n=4x=48 chromosomes) species from Mexico in particular, Solanum hjertingii Hawkes, and their crossability with cultivated potatoes. Ian’s studentship (co-supervised at Birmingham by Professor Jim Callow) involved a collaboration with the Institute of Food Research (now Quadram Institute Bioscience) in Norwich, where his co-supervisor was Dr JC Hughes.

Gene editing has recently successfully produced non-browning potatoes. Wide crossing is probably no longer needed.


I had two PhD students from Peru, René Chavez and Carlos Arbizu, who carried out their research at CIP (like I had in the early 1970s) and only came back to Birmingham to complete their residency requirements and defend their theses, although I visited them in Lima several times during their research.

René evaluated the breeding potential of wild species of potato for resistance to potato cyst nematodes and tuber moth, publishing three excellent papers from his thesis The use of wide crosses in potato breeding, submitted in 1984.

Carlos submitted his thesis, The use of Solanum acaule as a source of resistance to potato spindle tuber viroid (PSTV) and potato leaf roll virus (PLRV), in 1990. He never published any papers from his research, returning to Lima to work at CIP for a few years on Andean minor tuber crops, before setting himself up as a major avocado producer in Peru.


Denise Clugston (co-supervised by Professor Brian Ford-Lloyd) defended her thesis, Embryo culture and protoplast fusion for the introduction of Mexican wild species germplasm into the cultivated potato in 1988. She left biology almost immediately, and regrettably never did write any papers, although she did present this work at a conference held in Cambridge.

Another PhD student, Elizabeth Newton, worked on sexually-transmitted potato viruses of quarantine significance in the UK, in collaboration with one of my former colleagues at CIP, Dr Roger Jones who had returned to the UK and was working for the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food (MAFF) at the Harpenden Laboratory. In 1989 she successfully submitted her thesis, Studies towards the control of viruses transmitted through true potato seed but never published any papers, only presenting this one at a conference in Warwick in 1986.

Because of the quarantine restrictions imposed on the Hawkes collection, I took the decision (with Jack’s blessing) to donate it to the Commonwealth Potato Collection in Dundee. Once the collection was gone, we had other opportunities for potato research at Birmingham.


In the late 1980s, my colleague Brian Ford-Lloyd (right) and I ran a project, funded by KP Agriculture (and managed by my former CIP colleague, Dr John Vessey) to generate somaclonal lines resistant to low temperature sweetening of the crisping var. Record .

My former MSc student Susan Juned (right) was hired as a Research Associate.

We began the project with a batch of 170 Record tubers, uniquely numbering each one and keeping the identity of all somaclones derived from each tuber. And there were some interesting results (and an unexpected response from the media [5]).

Did the project meet its objectives? Well, this is what John later told us:

The project was successful in that it produced Record somaclones with lower reducing sugars in the tubers, but unsuccessful in that none entered commercial production . . . Shortly after the end of the project, Record was replaced by a superior variety, Saturna

The project very clearly showed the potential of somaclones but also emphasised that it needs to be combined with conventional breeding . . . Other important aspects were the demonstration that the commercial seed potato lines available were not genetically identical, as previously thought, and that regeneration of clones from single cells had to be as rapid as possible to avoid unwanted somaclonal variation. 

The majority of somaclones were derived from just a few of the 170 tubers, each potentially (and quite unexpectedly) a different Record clone. We suggested that the differential regeneration ability was due to genetic differences between tubers as it was found to be maintained in subsequent tuber generations. Furthermore, this would have major implications for seed potato production specifically and, more generally, for in vitro genetic conservation of vegetatively-propagated species.

Sue completed her PhD, Somaclonal variation in the potato (Solanum tuberosum L.) cultivar Record with particular reference to the reducing sugar variation after cold storage in 1994 after I’d already left Birmingham for the Philippines.

After leaving the university, Sue became a very successful local politician, even running in one General Election as a Liberal Democrat candidate for Parliament. Sue is now Leader of Stratford-on-Avon District Council.


From 1984, I had a project to work on true potato seed (or TPS) in collaboration with CIP, funded by the Overseas Development Administration (ODA, a UK government agency that eventually became the Department for International Development or DfID, but now fully subsumed into the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office).

For many reasons, this project was not a success. Let me explain.

At the end of the 1970s CIP launched a project to use TPS as an alternative production approach to seed potatoes (i.e., tubers). But the use of TPS is not without its challenges.

Potato genetics are complex because most cultivated potatoes are polyploid, actually tetraploid with 48 chromosomes. And although self compatible, and producing copious quantities of TPS through self pollination, the progeny are highly variable. My approach was to produce uniform or homozygous diploid (with 24 chromosomes) inbred lines. The only obstacle being that diploid potatoes are self incompatible. We aimed to overcome that obstacle. There were precedents, albeit from a species in a totally unrelated plant family but with a similar incompatibility genetic base.

One of my colleagues at Birmingham, geneticist Dr Mike Lawrence spent many years working on field poppy (Papaver rhoeas) and, through persistent selfing, had manage to break its strong self incompatibility. We believed that a similar approach using single seed descent might yield dividends in diploid potatoes. Well, at least ODA felt it was worth a try, and the project had CIP’s backing (although not enthusiastically from the leading breeder there at the time). However, in the light of subsequent research, I think we have been vindicated in taking this particular approach.

Because of quarantine restrictions at Birmingham that I already mentioned, we negotiated an agreement with the Plant Breeding Institute (PBI) in Cambridge to base the project there, building a bespoke glasshouse for the research. My counterpart at PBI was the head of potato breeding, Dr Alan J Thomson. We hired a postdoc, recently graduated with a PhD from the University of St Andrews, who came with glowing references.

We set out our perspectives on inbreeding at a CIP planning conference in Lima.

I further elaborated on these perspectives in a book chapter (published in 1987) based on a paper I presented at a joint meeting of EAPR and EUCARPIA at King’s College, Cambridge, in December 1985.

Ultimately the project did not meet its main objective. We encountered three problems, even though making progress in the first three years:

  1. By year five, we really did hit a ‘biological brick wall’, and couldn’t break the self incompatibility. We decided to pull the plug, so-to-speak, one year before the end of the project. It was a hard decision to make, but I think we were being honest rather than consuming the remaining financial resources for the sake of completing the project cycle.
  2. We lost momentum in the project after three years when Margaret Thatcher’s government privatised the PBI, and we had to relocate the project to the university campus in Birmingham (having disposed of the wild potato collection to the CPC as I mentioned earlier). And then build new glasshouse facilities to support the project.
  3. As the lead investigator, I was not successful in encouraging our postdoc to communicate more readily and openly. That lack of open communication did not help us make the best strategic decisions. And I take responsibility for that. However, on reflection, I think that her appointment to this pioneering project was not the best decision that Alan and I made.

Looking at the progress in diploid breeding since, it’s quite ironic really because several breeders published a call in 2016 to reinvent the potato as a diploid inbred line-based crop, just as we proposed in the 1980s. Our publications have been consistently overlooked.

Inbreeding in diploids became possible because of the discovery of a self compatibility gene, Sli, in the wild species Solanum chacoense after selfing over seven generations. With that breakthrough, such an inbreeding approach had become a reality. Pity that we were not able to break self incompatibility in cultivated diploid potatoes ourselves. And there’s no doubt that advances in molecular genetics and genomics since the 1980s have significantly opened up and advanced this particular breeding strategy.


Around 1988, I was invited by CIP to join three other team members (a program manager, an agronomist, and an economist) to review a seed production project, funded by the SDC [6], in Peru. I believe Ken Brown had suggested me as the seed production technical expert.

L-R: Peruvian agronomist, me, Cesar Vittorelli (CIP review manager), Swiss economist, and Carlos Valverde (program manager and team leader).

I flew to Lima, and we spent the next three weeks visiting sites in La Molina (next to CIP headquarters), in Huancayo in the central Andes, Cuzco in the south of Peru, and Cajamarca in the north.

That consultancy taught me a lot about program reviews and would stand me in good stead later on in my career. Once we had submitted our report, I returned to the UK, and a couple of weeks later spent a few days in Bern at the headquarters of the SDC for a debriefing session.

We found the project had been remarkably successful, making an impact in its operational areas, and we recommended a second phase, which the SDC accepted. Unfortunately, events in Peru overtook the project, as the Shining Path (Sendero Luminoso) guerrilla movement was on the ascendancy and it became too dangerous to move around the country.


After Jack Hawkes retired in 1982, he and I would meet up for lunch and a beer at least once a week to chat about our common interests in genetic resources conservation, and potatoes in particular. Out of those discussions came a couple of theoretical papers.

The Endosperm Balance Number (or EBN) hypothesis had been proposed to explain the crossability between tuber-bearing Solanum species (there are over 150 wild species of potato). We wrote this paper to combine the taxonomic classification of the different species and their EBNs.

In 1987, Jack asked me to contribute a paper to a symposium he was organizing with Professor David Harris of the Institute of Archaeology at University College London to celebrate the centenary of one of my scientific heroes, Russian geneticist and acclaimed as the Father of Plant Genetic Resources, Nikolai Vavilov. I conceptualized how Vavilov’s Law of Homologous Series could be applied to potatoes.

By the end of the 1990s, I was already looking for scientific pastures new – in rice! And in early 1991, I accepted a position at the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in the Philippines, and my research focus moved from potatoes to rice.

What surprises me is that some of my potato work endures, and I regularly receive citations of several of my papers, the last of which was published more than 30 years ago.

With the announcement of the International Day of the Potato, it certainly has brought back many memories of the couple of decades I enjoyed working on this fascinating crop.


[1] Hawkes, JG  and J Francisco-Ortega (1992). The potato in Spain during the Late 16th Century. Economic Botany 46: 86-97.

[2] Hawkes, JG and J Francisco-Ortega (1993). The early history of the potato in Europe. Euphytica 70: 1-7.

[3] The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) today welcomed the UN’s decision to designate 30 May as International Day of Potato, an opportunity to raise awareness of a crop regularly consumed by billions of people and of global importance for food security and nutrition.

The annual observance was championed by Peru, which submitted a proposal for adoption to the UN General Assembly based on an FAO Conference Resolution of July 7, 2023. The impetus for the Day, which builds upon the International Year of Potato that was observed in 2008, originates from the need to emphasize the significant role of the potato in tackling prevalent global issues, such as food insecurity, poverty and environmental threats.

[4] Steph joined me in Lima in July 1973 and we were married there in October. John Vessey and his wife Marian were our witnesses.

In November 1972, a couple of months after she had graduated with an MSc in genetic resources conservation from the University of Birmingham (where we met), Steph joined the Scottish Plant Breeding Station in Edinburgh as Assistant Curator of the Commonwealth Potato Collection. At CIP, she was an Associate Geneticist responsible for the day-to-day management of the institute’s potato germplasm collection.

Steph in one of CIP’s screenhouses at La Molina.

[5] In 1987, we wrote a piece about the somaclone project for the University of Birmingham internal research bulletin. This was picked up by several media, including the BBC and I was invited to appear on a breakfast TV show. Until, that is, the producer realised that the project was a serious piece of research.

One of the tabloid newspapers, The Sun, was less forgiving, and ran a brief paragraph on page 3 (Crunch time for boffins) alongside the daily well-endowed young lady. Click on the image to enlarge.

[6] The seed project was my second contact with the SDC (after PRECODEPA). After I joined IRRI in 1991, the SDC funded a five year project from 1995 to rescue rice biodiversity, among other objectives. I have written about that project here.


 

USA 2024 (2) – On the road again

Well, after our road trip in 2019 I ‘promised’ myself that would be the last one. And although enjoyable, maybe I pushed myself a little too much; I found it rather tiring.

Tuesday 14 May. And here we were preparing to jet off to Las Vegas to begin another trip, this time across Utah and Colorado over the next seven days.

It was an early start to the airport for the 07:00 flight to LAS.

As I mentioned in my recent post, I already had a route planned and all our hotels booked. But the route was always subject to change, and that’s precisely what happened once we were on the road and could see the progress we made each day.

Now back in Minnesota I’ve been editing >1100 images and have placed them in photo albums at the end of this post.

I also used my dashcam throughout the whole trip, so I’m busy editing >222 GB of footage into short videos, some of which are included in the narrative below.

When I was planning this trip, and in touch with my old friend and former colleague, Roger Rowe, he suggested I should play Willie Nelson’s On the Road Again as a background theme to our travels.

Well, I’m not a particular Willie Nelson fan, but his words certainly resonated each morning as we set out on each leg of the trip, that I’ve documented here with maps and descriptions of the many interesting places we visited along the way, over more than 1600 miles. And, my British readers will be surprised to learn, at a gasoline cost of only £0.06 (6p) per mile.


Day 1: 14 May – Las Vegas, NV to St George-Washington, UT via the Hoover Dam (185 miles)
After a three hour flight from Minneapolis-St Paul (MSP) we landed in Las Vegas on time just after 08:00 and, having only hand luggage, were quickly out of the terminal, catching the shuttle bus to the car rental center south of the airport. Which was a good location for us as we were headed southeast to the Hoover Dam.

I’d booked an intermediate SUV through Alamo, and the pickup in LAS was quick and efficient. Choosing a VW Tiguan (with California plates) among several options on offer, we must have been on the road just after 09:00, heading for a supermarket en route to pick up supplies of drinking water, fruit, and other snacks for the trip.

Construction of the Hoover Dam, straddling the Nevada-Arizona state line, began over 90 years ago, and it was commissioned in 1935. What a magnificent example of engineering expertise of the time. Walking across the dam, and taking in its art deco features, you can’t help wonder at the sheer scale of its construction. And the Mike O’Callaghan-Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge, which opened in 2010, is the second highest in the USA and carries Interstate 11 and US Route 93 over the Colorado River. You can really appreciate the scale of this bridge in this video.

We arrived late morning, parked in the covered car park (worth it, at $10 a time, since the temperature was approaching 100°F). Later on we drove across the dam to the Arizona side (and a different time zone) to eat our lunch overlooking Lake Mead, and noting just how low the water level had become.

Then it was time to head north for our first stop of the trip in St George-Washington just over the Arizona-Utah state line.

The route we took passed through the Lake Mead National Recreational Area, offering great views of the lake and the mountains in the distance, before joining Interstate 15 for the final 70 miles.

Day 2: 15 May – St George-Washington to Bryce Canyon City via Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon N.P. (207 miles)

First stop of the day was Kolob Canyons, part of Zion National Park, some 30 miles north of St George-Washington.

There’s just a 5 mile road from the Visitor Center to an overlook point over the canyons to the east. This was our first introduction to ‘canyon country’ on this trip (we’d visited the Grand Canyon and Monument Valley in 2011).

Then, retracing our steps a few miles, we took Utah Scenic Highway 9 through Zion National Park eastwards to Carmel Junction.

Zion was heaving with tourists and this wasn’t by any stretch of the imagination the peak season. All campgrounds were full, and there was no parking available at the Visitor Center.

It was never our intention to take the shuttle into the canyon itself, but just drive through. And what a drive it was with magnificent red sandstone cliffs rising all around.

Even though we took our time to drive through the park, we realised that we would reach Bryce Canyon by mid-afternoon. And, rather than delay that visit until the following morning, decided to enter the park there and then, and actually benefitted by seeing some of the more iconic landscapes in the late afternoon sun. Landscapes to make your heart sing. As the park brochures states: Red rocks, pink cliffs, and endless vistas! The sandstone pillars reminded me of China’s Terracotta Army.

Day 3: 16 May – Bryce Canyon City to Moab, UT via Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument (290 miles)
We set out early on Day 3, knowing we had one of the longest drives of the trip to reach Moab. As we had originally planned to tour Bryce Canyon that morning, I had chosen a route to Moab taking in the major roads, knowing it was likely to be faster. But with the whole day to reach Moab, and discovering that the route across the desert, Scenic Byway Route 12 (SR-12), through the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, is also designated as an All-American Road, and not as remote as I had imagined just looking at a highways map.

What an experience, and definitely a must-travel route if you are ever in that area.

Look out for the ‘Hogback’, where the road has sheer drops on both sides, just after 18 minutes in the video below.

Reaching I-70 by mid-afternoon, we made good progress to Moab as the speed limit on this interstate was 80 mph. A mostly boring drive, but with one spectacular section.

Day 4: 17 May – Moab to Grand Junction, CO via Arches N.P. and Canyonlands N.P. (231 miles)

Arches National Park is just a few miles north of Moab, and beyond the park entrance, there’s an impressive climb along the cliff face to enter the park proper. Admission to the park is by timed tickets, and I’d reserved a slot for 08:00 as soon as they became available in early April.

Arches is a ‘closed’ park, with entrance and exit the same, with a drive of about 18 miles to the furthest point, the Devil’s Garden Trailhead. I was quite surprised how fast and determined many drivers seemed to be heading there, until we also arrived there about three hours later and found there were no parking spaces at all.

But that didn’t bother us, as we were more than happy to potter along, stopping wherever we could and just taking in the most incredible scenery, and views of the La Salle Mountains to the southeast.

We spent most time walking up to the Two Windows arches and Turret Arch (I guess a little over a mile in total), where there were wonderful views over the park.

We saw the free-standing Delicate Arch from a lower viewpoint. The walk to the arch, about a mile, up a steep cliff face, and in the blistering heat was beyond our capabilities by that point.

After a picnic lunch at Panorama Point, we headed out of the park north to where UT 313 peels west from US191, towards the entrance gate to Canyonlands National Park. It’s a 34 mile drive southwest to the furthest point at Grand View Point.

Canyonlands is the Grand Canyon on a smaller scale, overlooking the Colorado and Green Rivers and their confluence to the south. It’s so vast it was hard to take it all in.

Late afternoon, and we headed north again to re-join I-70 for the remaining 81 miles to Grand Junction, CO and our next hotel stop.

Day 5: 18 May – Grand Junction to Durango via the ‘Million Dollar Highway’ and Mesa Verde N.P. (291 miles)
This was always going to be the most challenging day of driving, crossing several passes in the San Juan Mountains, on the ‘Million Dollar Highway’ between Ouray and Silverton.

I’d already done my research about the ‘Million Dollar Highway, read reports, and watched various videos on YouTube. Almost all said the highway was not for the faint-hearted, because of the gradients, sharp curves, and steep and deep drop-offs with no guard rails. Had it been raining heavily (we only had a short shower as we left Ouray), foggy, or icy I probably would have chosen another route to Durango.

However, looking back on this section of our trip, it was not as challenging as others would have you believe. We went slowly, and I used semi-automatic use of low gears whenever necessary. Frightening? No, it was exhilarating, crossing three passes at over 10,000 feet, the highest being Red Mountain Pass at 11,013 feet (or 3358 m).

There were few places to stop to take photos, although I was able to capture stills from the video footage.

Having left Grand Junction by 08:00, and even taking into consideration the slower traverse of the mountains, we arrived in Durango by early afternoon, so decided to continue on to Mesa Verde National Park, about 35 miles west, rather than leaving the visit for the following morning.

The park is a World Heritage Site, where communities of Ancestral Pueblo people lived for over 700 years, building dwellings on the mesa and cliffs. It’s hard to imagine what drove these Ancestral Puebloans to choose such sites for their houses and temples half way up sheer cliff faces. Caught in the late afternoon sunshine they were indeed impressive.

One location we stopped at was the Montezuma Valley Overlook (map). In July 1958, while leading an expedition to collect wild potato species in the USA, Mexico, and Central America, my PhD supervisor and mentor, Professor Jack Hawkes, stopped here and took the photo on the left below. Here I am at the same spot almost 66 years later.

Then it was back into Durango for the night, just in time to catch one of the best grass-fed beef burgers I’ve tasted in a long while.

Day 6: 19 May – Durango to Cañon City, CO via Chimney Rock National Monument (272 miles)
I’d chosen Cañon City as our next destination as I wanted to view the Royal Gorge Bridge (‘America’s Bridge’, and the highest in the country) standing 955 feet (or 291 m) above the Arkansas River.

This was just a travel day, with no scheduled stops. That is until we saw a sign, about 29 miles east of Durango, that the Chimney Rock National Monument was just 26 miles ahead. Well I’d never heard of this location, nor had spotted it on the maps I had prepared for the trip.

Anyway, at the turn-off, we noted that the monument was just a handful of miles south from the main road US-160E. What a find!

Chimney Rock National Monument is an Ancestral Puebloan site, with an impressive kiva on the summit of the mesa, and just a stone’s throw from the twin peaks, Chimney Rock and Companion Rock, that give the site its name. Fortunately there’s a dirt road almost to the summit of the mesa, and from there to the buildings is a quarter mile walk, and 200 foot ascent (which I did very carefully).

But what a view from the summit, all the way into New Mexico.

At Chimney Rock, we’d hardly dented our journey to Cañon City, and having spent just under two hours there, with more than 200 miles more to travel (and over several mountain ranges), we didn’t reach our destination until around 19:00. And we were lucky to find somewhere to dine, as it was a Sunday evening.

This next video shows the ascent into the mountains on US-160 beyond Pagosa Springs, crossing Wolf Creek Pass summit at 10,856 feet, and descending towards South Fork.

Day 7: 20 May – Cañon City to Denver via Royal Gorge Bridge and the Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument (184 miles)
Built in just six months in 1929, the Royal Gorge Bridge used to carry a road over the gorge, but is now closed to traffic. It stands within a resort and theme park, and pedestrians are allowed to cross – if they dare! It wouldn’t suit me; I suffer from vertigo.

I failed to find an unofficial viewpoint that would have given us a great view down the deep gorge, so had to make do with those from the resort car park.

Then it was off to the Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, just under 50 miles north, one of the richest and most diverse fossil deposits in the world. Petrified redwood stumps up to 14 feet wide and thousands of detailed fossils of insects and plants reveal the story of a very different, prehistoric Colorado.

Even though off the beaten track, so to speak, we were somewhat surprised how many other visitors showed up shortly after we arrived a few minutes after the opening time of 10:00.

The fossilised redwood trees are indeed impressive, buried in a volcanic mudflow or lahar 34 million years ago, as was the revelation that the monument is probably one of the fossil hotspots in the world. Here’s a film from the National Parks Service about the site.

We took the Petrified Forest Trail (about 1½ miles), viewing some of the redwoods, including Big Stump.

Then, we headed to Denver for our last night on the road, at a hotel near the airport, just as a major storm hit town with hailstones the size of marbles. In fact the last 60 miles after we joined US-285 and then I-70 once again, with several lanes of fast moving traffic, were quite a shock to the system after driving along relatively deserted rural roads for the previous week.


But we reached Denver safely, enjoyed a good night’s sleep before departing for the car rental center around 08.15, in order to catch our flight back to Minnesota at 11:15.

It’s quite illuminating to compare the landscapes around Denver (big agriculture, and very flat with the Rockies to the far west of Denver) with the arrival into leafy Minneapolis-St Paul.

What a wonderful trip! It’s quite hard to choose the highlights, but from a landscape point of view I’d have to choose Bryce Canyon, and the ‘Million Dollar Highway’ and other routes over the Rockies.

Hotels were variable. We always choose a budget or mid-range chain. All we want is a clean room, bed, and bathroom before moving on the next day. What we did notice, however, is how much more expensive hospitality and accommodation has become in the US.

So that’s that for 2024, abroad at least. We are having a week away in East Anglia in the UK during September.

Will we make another US road trip in 2025? Maybe, but currently we’re more inclined towards a three day break in New Orleans, a city we’ve wanted to visit for a long time.


USA 2024 (1) – Jetting there

Well, we booked our flights way back at the beginning of January. And here we are, five months later, in St Paul, Minnesota for a month-long vacation with our elder daughter Hannah and her family.

Our trip started very early last Thursday (9 May). I’d booked a local taxi for 03:30 to take us to Newcastle International Airport (NCL) for the flight to Amsterdam (AMS), so had the alarm set for 02:30. Just ten minutes before the scheduled pick-up time, I received a message on a phone app with the name of the driver, make and registration of the car, and when he would arrive. Imminently!

The roads were quiet at that time of the morning, as expected, and the 11 mile drive to the airport took less than 20 minutes.

All went smoothly at the KLM check-in; there was no-one in the queue ahead of us. Unlike last year when it was mayhem at NCL.

We quickly cleared security but then had to wait until 05:30 for the gate to open.

Once on board, the captain announced there would be a delay for about 1 hour due to fog at Schipol. Groans all round! But then, just five minutes later, he announced the good news that the weather had improved in AMS, and our flight had been given clearance to depart.

KLM operated a Boeing 737-800 (registration PH-BGC) on this sector.

Source: Planespotters.net © Günter Reichwein

It was bright and sunny, warm even, when we landed in AMS, around 08:20, but there was a very long taxi (around 15 minutes) to Gate D44.

Our connecting Delta flight (DL161) to MSP left from Gate E3 at 10:15. Schipol is a huge airport, and even with walkways it can take many minutes to walk from one gate to another. But as we’d arrived on time, we ‘enjoyed’ a leisurely stroll to our gate. Unlike last year when our arrival into AMS was delayed by more than 1 hour and we had to rush, arriving at the departure gate just as the flight was boarding. And as I’m still having some mobility issues, I was relieved we had the extra minutes this year.

Delta operated an Airbus A330-300 (registration N821NW) on this route. As with previous years we booked Delta Comfort+ seats. We enjoy the slightly bigger space and seat recline (and dedicated overhead bin space). And in the 2-4-2 seat configuration, window and aisle seats are a good choice for us. On the return journey last year, from Detroit (DTW) to AMS, I used airmiles to upgrade to Premium Economy. Not worth it!

Source: Planespotters.net © Erwin Scholz

The flight was almost completely full, yet despite that boarding proceeded smoothly and we actually departed about 10 minutes ahead of schedule.

This was one of the smoothest flights I’ve had over the North Atlantic, and although I never can sleep well on any flight, I must have snatched some, helped by a couple of these with my lunch, and another with a snack later on.

On arrival at MSP (Gate G2), at 11:40 (about 40 minutes ahead of schedule), there was quite a long walk from the plane to Immigration. With just a couple of passengers ahead of us in the queue, we sailed through, and both our bags arrived within 10 minutes. Hannah and Michael were waiting for us, and since they live just 4 miles (and around 9 minutes) from MSP, we were home by about 12:30 and soon enjoying a refreshing cup of tea.


In 2023 we visited the US for the first time since 2019 and made just a short road trip overnight to meet up with old friends Norma and Roger Rowe in La Crosse, Wisconsin. It was in September  2019 that we made our last long road trip, and I ‘vowed’ it would be our last. Until we agreed to make another trip this year. Who knows what’s in store in 2025?

Anyway, we’re flying out to Las Vegas (LAS) next Tuesday to begin a road trip of around 1800 miles across Utah and Colorado, visiting several national parks along the way: Kolob Canyon, Zion, Bryce, Arches, and Canyonlands in Utah, and Mesa Verde and Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument in Colorado. I’ve chosen some exciting (challenging, even) routes through the Rockies, taking in the ‘Million Dollar Highway’, weather permitting. And stopping off at the Hoover Dam in Nevada on the first day.

This is our planned route that will be subject to changes depending on road conditions at the time. But we do have all our overnight stops booked, so that much remains fixed.

Then, a week later, we’ll fly back to MSP from Denver (DEN).

Yesterday, we visited the Minnesota Valley National Wildlife Refuge (just 6 miles from Hannah’s house) to purchase an America the Beautiful National Parks and Federal Recreation Lands annual pass. At US$80 (=£64.29) this is great value, saving probably half of what we would pay for all the individual visits on our trip, and permits entrance to all the national parks and facilities of several other federal agencies.

We also enjoyed a short walk around one of the trails near the Visitor Center, and within just a few minutes of arrival saw an incredible array of bird species. We will be returning there and to several of the other trail sites along the Minnesota River.

So look out for more posts in the coming weeks because I’ll be writing about each day’s adventures, posting lots of photographs and dashcam footage as we wend our way through the various canyons and over the mountain passes.