Morons, philistines, iconoclasts . . . or just plain stupid?

Vindictive and vengeful, certainly.

Emboldened by Donald Trump, ‘Department of Government Efficiency‘ or DOGE lead, Elon Musk – the world’s richest man – has taken a chainsaw (his words) to the departments, institutions, and agencies of the US federal government in a cruel and callous not to say careless way over the past few weeks since Trump’s inauguration on 20 January.

Elon Musk wielding a chainsaw at the Conservative Political Action Conference (CPAC) at the Gaylord National Resort Hotel And Convention Center on 20 February 2025 in Oxon Hill, Maryland.

That’s not to deny that inefficiencies can be found and budgetary savings made in any government, and I’m sure the US federal government is no different from any other. But to proceed, as Musk and his acolytes have, is causing possibly irreparable damage on a daily basis, thousands of federal employees are losing their jobs, and this ‘downsizing’ has been effected in, it seems, an indiscriminate way. Last in, first out, and hang the consequences.

As billionaire entrepreneur Mark Cuban posted on Bluesky (@mcuban.bsky.social) a few hours ago:

Ready Aim Fire is a lousy way to govern.

Has it only been five weeks? It feels more like five years. And already the harm is being done, supported by some of probably the most incompetent and least qualified departmental secretaries (RFK Jr at Health and Pete Hegseth at Defense come immediately to mind, but there are many others, although yesterday Musk declared that Trump’s Cabinet was the most qualified of all time).

Certainly it looks like Musk is on some sort of ego trip. Or perhaps an over-enthusiastic substance-fuelled trip, as Musk has himself acknowledged his use of the same.

I’m not going to comment of the long list of agencies that DOGE has gone after, and having done the damage has had to roll back some of his actions, not entirely with success.

But I would like to comment on two areas that I do have some experience in, and have had contact over the years, directly and indirectly.

It’s beyond comprehension that, seemingly on a whim, DOGE abolished the world’s biggest (although not meeting the UN target of 0.7% of Gross National Income or GNI) and perhaps most important development agency, the United States Agency for International Development or USAid (now subsumed into the State Department).

Here’s how USAid compared to other foreign government development aid agencies:

Donald Trump and Elon Musk have hit foreign aid harder and faster than almost any other target in their push to cut the size of the federal government. Both men say USAid projects advance a liberal agenda and are a waste of money. (The Guardian, 27 February 2025).

Seems like charity begins at home. Except that the savings won’t be passed on to Mr and Mrs Average American. Wait for the tax cuts for the already rich.

Those cuts at USAid immediately affected humanitarian, health, and agricultural support programs around the world, as personnel were recalled to the US (I have a number of close friends who worked for USAid in the US or abroad), and an immediate ban on further program expenditures implemented. But it’s not just overseas that USAid’s demise will be felt. USAid was a huge purchaser of home-grown grains for donation to the World Food Program or directly to nations suffering food shortages. US farmers will reap the harvest of Musk’s misguided ‘efficiencies’.

For almost 30 years I worked at two (of 14) centers—the International Potato Center (CIP) and the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI)—of the Consultative Group on International Agricultural Research or CGIAR.

For 2025, the CGIAR had a proposed budget of around USD1 billion, funded through a consortium of donor agencies, and various funding mechanisms. In the past, USAid was one of the largest and most important supporters of the CGIAR. Termination of its funding, if indeed this is what is about to happen, will severely impact how the research centers can continue to operate effectively, and I fear that programs will be cut, and staff let go [1].

The other area of concern with regard to the Trump/Musk attack on federal agencies relates to the long-term safety of the nation’s genetic resources collections managed by the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA).

In this recent article in Science (just click on the headline below to open) the range of cuts is described and the pushback from agribusiness.

Plant breeder Neha Kothari (right) was hired in October 2024 to streamline and improve the department’s vast collections of seeds and living crops that are key to developing improved varieties. But on 13 February she, like tens of thousands of other recent hires across the government still in probationary status, was dismissed from her job. [2]

The entire gene bank network felt the chainsaw wielded by Elon Musk’s Department of Government Efficiency. About 30 employees—10% of its total staff—were terminated, according to an informal survey by some retired USDA scientists. An additional 10 vacant positions have been frozen or rescinded, and a similar number took Musk’s offer last month to resign immediately but remain on the federal payroll through September.

When I started my career in genetic resources conservation 55 years ago, there was a vision and hope that one day the global system of genebanks would be properly funded. Now, with funding from the Crop Trust, that vision is being realised. And just as the genebank system is being stabilised, DOGE’s attack on the USDA’s germplasm system is unprecedented as well as a totally misguided action by incompetent DOGE staff who, it seems across a wide range of sectors, simply do not have the knowledge, expertise, or experience to make the sorts of ‘chainsaw’ decisions they are inflicting on the federal government.

Which brings me on to a final point. There’s something particularly obscene that the world’s richest man is holding sway over the lives of hundreds of thousands of federal employees (and the nation at large) even while his own companies receive federal grants and contracts reported to be in excess of USD13 billion. I wonder if he’s going after those agencies from which he receives such business largesse? Talk about conflict of interest.

I came across this list of questions about Musk and his wealth which someone posted on Bluesky recently:

Says so much. Just to put Musk’s wealth into perspective. If he was to give away USD1 million a day, it would take over 1000 years to disburse the lot! As far as anyone can tell, Musk has not engaged in any (or very little – I stand to be corrected) philanthropic endeavours.

With his wealth, he could fund the Crop Trust and global genebank activities in perpetuity with just a USD1 billion donation. Loose change for him.

Click here to read the Crop Trust Annual Report for 2023 which explains just how its funding is used to preserve and use the world’s crop genetic heritage.

Not all billionaires are like Musk. At least two billionaires, Bill Gates (with ex-wife Melinda) and Warren Buffet put their money where their mouths are in setting up the Bill & Melinda Gates Foundation (now the Gates Foundation) that has funded many humanitarian efforts globally, at USD7.7 billion in 2023. While the GF has come in for criticism on several levels, there’s no doubt that its programs have brought about or facilitated real change. Where does Musk stand in this respect? Invisible!


[1] In a news conference a couple of days ago, UK Prime Minister Sir Keir Starmer announced an increase in the nation’s defence budget – at the expense of the overseas aid and development budget. That had already been cut under the previous Conservative government in 2021 from the UN target of 0.7% of GNI (enshrined in law in 2015). The aid budget has been slashed to 0.3% of GNI. The UK is an important donor to the CGIAR, and this reduction is a double whammy (along with USAid) for future CGIAR prospects.

[2] Update from Science, 24 February, 5:35 pm: Science has learned that USDA is reinstating Neha Kothari as leader of the department’s national program on plant genetic resources. Kothari joins several other top-tier government scientists whose firings have been reversed, but so far there is no indication that USDA has reinstated other fired germplasm system staff. Academic leaders and representatives from the agricultural industry had criticized Kothari’s dismissal.


 

Killing me softly . . . memories maketh the man! (Updated 25 February 2025)*

Memories. Powerful; fleeting; joyful; or sad. Sometimes, unfortunately, too painful and hidden away in the deepest recesses of the mind, only to be dragged to the surface with great reluctance.

Some memories float to the surface at the slightest instigation. Often all it takes is a glimpse of a treasured landscape, a word spoken by a friend, a few bars of music, or a particular song. Some memories need more persuasion.

And then, one is transported back days, months, years, even decades. Memories can be vague; they can be crystal clear, even while the precise context may be fuzzy round the edges – where, when, or why. They are part and parcel of who each and every one of us is as a person. Without memories, we are nobody.

I have one particular – and very strong – memory whenever Roberta Flack starts to kill me softly . . . Yes, one song. Just a few bars, and I’m taken back 52 years to late January 1973. Lima, Peru.

So why this particular song?

I’d arrived in Lima at the beginning of the month to start my assignment as Associate Taxonomist at the International Potato Center (CIP) in La Molina on the eastern outskirts of the city (now totally subsumed into Lima’s urban sprawl).

After spending a couple of weeks holed up in the Pensión Beech (a guest house in the San Isidro district of Lima), I signed a contract for my own apartment on the 11th or 12th floor of an apartment building (still standing today) at Pasaje Los Pinos in the heart of the Miraflores District. In 1973, there was just a dirt parking lot in front of the apartment building, and the Todos Supermarket (no longer there) was to one side. Now the apartment building is surrounded by high-rise on all sides. It’s a wonder that it has survived about 50 years of earthquakes, including several rather large ones. It never did seem that sturdy to me, but there again, what do I know about engineering?

The arrow indicates the approximate location of my apartment. In January 1973 this building stood in a wide open space – no longer the case.

I moved in, just after my small consignment of airfreight (including a stereo system) had arrived a few days earlier. I had music!

Steph joined me in Lima at the beginning of July 1973, and we stayed in the same apartment for about six weeks more before moving to a larger one elsewhere in Miraflores. My stereo is prominently displayed on the left!

And on the radio station that I tuned into the local radio station, (Radio Panamericana, Radio Pacifico, or perhaps Radio Miraflores?), Killing Me Softly With His Song was played, almost non-stop it seemed, from its release on 21 January 1973 for the next couple of months. It became an instant worldwide success for Roberta Flack. But she wasn’t the first to record it.

KMSWHS was penned by American lyricist Norman Gimbel (who passed away in December 2018), with music by his long-time collaborator Charles Fox. However, there is some dispute over the song’s origins. KMSWHS was originally recorded by American singer Lori Lieberman in 1971.

Whatever the situation, KMSWHS remains a great favorite of mine. Whenever I hear it, I’m 24 years old again, starting out on a career in international agricultural research for development. The world was my oyster!

As I wrote a few years back, I would include KMSWHS on my list of eights discs to take to a desert island. That perspective has not changed.


Yesterday, 24 February 2025, Roberta Flack died in New York at the age of 88.

  • Originally published on 7 January 2019

Respect the Office . . . in spite of the occupant?

I grew up believing that—despite the suitability or not of the occupant—one should respect the office of a Prime Minister or President.

But when it comes to the current occupant of the Oval Office, POTUS #47, that’s a hard maxim to follow.

Why? Well, from my perspective (I’m neither a US citizen nor resident), Donald Trump has shown, by his behaviour since his inauguration just four weeks ago, that he himself does not respect the Office of the President of the United States. Furthermore, he continues to be egregiously offensive to long-term allies or individuals. Take, for example, his denigration of the Prime Minister of Canada as ‘Governor Trudeau’. Decidedly un-presidential!

He was bad enough during his first term as POTUS #45. Then he was just a ridiculous moron. Now he’s a ruthless iconoclastic moron, surrounded by acolytes determined to fundamentally change American society—and not for the better.

In less than four weeks he has wreaked havoc on government departments and agencies (too many to recount here¹) and reset US relationships with allies (and foes).

And he unleashed mad dogs in the form of Elon Musk and his cohort of employees from the so-called ‘Department for Government Efficiency’ (DOGE) with, it seems, carte blanche authority to do whatever he pleases.

There’s something particularly obscene in the world’s richest man taking decisions that will impoverish millions (if not billions) of people worldwide.

Notwithstanding also Trump’s cabinet appointments like Robert Kennedy Jr at Health, or Pete Hegseth at Defense and others (often billionaires) who, on the face of it, are remarkably unqualified to occupy those positions.

Do his MAGA supporters rejoice? Probably so far. Wait until the cuts begin to bite for ordinary Americans.

An ineffective Republican Party refuses to stand up to Trump. Instead of holding the Executive to account—one of the principal roles of Congress—lily-livered Republicans just say ‘How high, Mr President?‘ when Trump says ‘Jump!

The blatantly illegal actions he has already taken through a mountain of Executive Orders are being challenged in the courts. But will Trump obey court orders? It seems not, if we take him at his word in a comment posted on 15 February on Truth Social. What a dangerous attitude and precedent!

During his first term, 2017-2021, I wrote quite a number of blogs decrying Trump and all he stood for. Just click on the red boxes to open these stories.

With regard to that last post, I certainly got it wrong – as did many others. This was written just a month before Trump’s attempted insurrection on 6 January 2021. We thought we’d seen the last of him. How wrong we were.

In writing this story, I broke a promise to myself. How’s that? Well, once it became apparent that Trump was headed for an election victory last November, I vowed I wouldn’t post anything on my blog as I had before. But it has been such a whirlwind of bad news since 20 January, I just couldn’t help myself. This cartoon (which I saw on BlueSky) sums up how I feel about the whole situation.

Were it not for the fact that our elder daughter and family live in Minnesota (who we will visit later this year as we have done regularly over the past 15 years, apart from the Covid years), I think I’d give the USA a wide berth over the next four years. Having said that, Steph and I have encountered friendliness and courtesy everywhere we have traveled around that country. Will that have changed as attitudes and positions, for and against Trump, become increasingly polarised?

A last comment. My car lease contract (on a Ford Kuga diesel) terminates in less than a year, and I will certainly take out another lease on a new car, more than likely an EV this time. One thing’s for certain: it WON’T be a Tesla!


¹ Here are some examples:


 

The Commonwealth Potato Collection – it really is a treasure trove (revised and updated)*

I originally wrote this story in August 2021 after a friend and former colleague, Dr Glenn Bryan¹ posted a link on his Facebook page to a story—Treasure trove could hold secrets to potato problems—that had just appeared in the online edition of Dundee’s The Courier.

It was about the Commonwealth Potato Collection (CPC) that is held at The James Hutton Institute (JHI) at Invergowrie, just west of Dundee.

Until a couple of years ago (when he retired) Glenn led the Potato Genetics and Breeding Group at JHI, with Gaynor McKenzie as the CPC curator, a position she still occupies.

Glenn Bryan and Gaynor McKenzie at the James Hutton Institute in Invergowrie, where wild potato species in the Commonwealth Potato Collection are conserved.

The Commonwealth Potato Collection has a long and distinguished history, going back more than 80 years. It is one of a handful of potato germplasm collections around the world in which breeders have identified disease and pest resistance genes to enhance the productivity of cultivated varieties. The CPC is particularly important from a plant quarantine perspective because the collection has been routinely tested and cleaned for various pathogens, particularly seed-borne pathogens.

Jack Hawkes

It is a collection with which Steph and I have both a personal and professional connection, from the 1970s and 80s. It’s also the legacy of one man, Professor Jack Hawkes (1915-2007) with whom I had the privilege of studying for both my MSc and PhD degrees.

Let me tell that story.


In December 1938, a young botanist—just 23 years old the previous June—set off from Liverpool, headed to Lima, Peru to join the British Empire Potato Collecting Expedition to South America, the adventure of a lifetime.

Jack in Bolivia in 1939

John ‘Jack’ Gregory Hawkes, a Christ’s College, Cambridge graduate, was destined to become one of the world’s leading potato experts and a champion of the conservation and use of plant genetic resources for food and agriculture.

He was the taxonomic botanist on the 1939 expedition, which was led by experienced plant collector Edwards Kent Balls (1892-1984). Medical doctor and amateur botanist William ‘Bill’ Balfour Gourlay (1879-1966) was the third member of the expedition. Balls and Gourlay had been collecting plants in Mexico (including some potatoes) in 1938 before moving on to Peru for the ‘Empire’ expedition.

The expedition had originally been scheduled to start in 1937, but had to be delayed because of ill health of the original expedition leader, Dr PS Hudson, Director of the Empire Bureau of Plant Breeding and Genetics in Cambridge. Jack had been hired as his assistant.

Whilst waiting for the expedition to get underway, Jack took the opportunity—in August 1938—to visit Leningrad to pick the brains of Russian botanists, Drs SM Bukasov, VS Juzepczuk, and VS Lechnovicz who had already collected potatoes in South America. Jack openly acknowledged that ‘as a raw recently graduated student, [he] knew very little about potatoes’.

Nikolai Vavilov

Not only did Jack receive useful advice from these knowledgeable botanists, but he also met with the great geneticist and ‘Father of Plant Genetic Resources’ Nikolai Vavilov on several occasions during his visit to Leningrad and Moscow, ‘an experience that changed [his] life in many ways’. Vavilov had a profound effect on Jack’s subsequent career as an academic botanist and genetic resources pioneer. Alas there do not appear to be any surviving photos of Jack with Vavilov.

‘Solanum vavilovii’ growing at an experiment station near Leningrad in 1938

In Leningrad, Jack took this photo (right) of a wild potato species that had been described as Solanum vavilovii by Juzepczuk and Bukasov in 1937. Sadly that name is no longer taxonomically valid, and vavilovii is now considered simply as a variant of the species Solanum wittmackii that had been described by the German botanist Friedrich August Georg Bitter in 1913.


The Empire expedition lasted eight months from January 1939, covering northern Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, and ending in Colombia (a country where Jack was to reside for three years from 1948 when he was seconded to establish a national potato research station near Bogota).

Route taken by the Empire Potato Collecting Expedition

More than 1150 samples of cultivated and wild potatoes were collected in these five countries as well as a further 46 samples collected by Balls and Gourlay in Mexico in 1938.

Here is a small selection of photographs taken during the expedition (and a link to an album of photos).


By the time the expedition ended in early September 1939, war with Germany had already been declared, and Jack’s return to the UK by ship convoy from Halifax, Newfoundland was not as comfortable as the outbound voyage nine months earlier, docking in Liverpool early in November.

Jack published an official expedition report in March 1941. Then, in 2003, he published an interesting and lengthy memoir of the expedition, Hunting the Wild Potato in the South American Andes.

In December 2021, my friend Dr Abigail Amey and I published a website (with permission of the Hawkes family) about Jack’s experiences of the 1938-39 expedition, as well as others to the USA, Mexico, and Central America in 1958, and Bolivia in 1971. Just click on the red box below (and others) to open the links.

The website also has several of Jack’s original 16mm films (which we were able to digitise through a special grant from the Crop Wild Relatives Project at Kew and the Crop Trust).

Redcliffe N Salaman

Potato tubers (and presumably seeds) were shipped back to the UK, and after a quarantine inspection, were planted out in a glasshouse at the Potato Virus Research Station, Cambridge whose director was the renowned botanist (and originally a medical doctor) Redcliffe Nathan Salaman, author of the seminal work on potatoes, The History and Social Influence of the Potato, first published in 1949 and reprinted with a new introduction by Hawkes in 1985. I jealously guard the signed copy that Jack gave me.

On his return to the UK in 1939 Jack began to study the collected germplasm, describing several new species, and completing his PhD thesis (supervised by Salaman) at the University of Cambridge in 1941.

South American potato species in the Cambridge glasshouse in the summer of 1940

Among the species identified in the course of Jack’s dissertation research was Solanum ballsii from northern Argentina, which he dedicated to EK Balls in a formal description in 1944. However, in his 1963 revised taxonomy of the tuber-bearing Solanums (potatoes), Jack (with his Danish colleague Jens Peter Hjerting, 1917-2012) recognized Solanum ballsii simply as a subspecies of Solanum vernei, a species which has since provided many important sources of resistance to the potato cyst nematode.


Jack Hawkes in the glasshouse of the Empire Potato Collection at Cambridge in July 1947.

The 1939 germplasm was the foundation of the Empire Potato Collection. When the collection curator Dr Kenneth S Dodds was appointed Director of the John Innes Institute in Bayfordbury in 1954, the collection moved with him, and was renamed the Commonwealth Potato Collection.

By the end of the decade (or early 1960s) the CPC was on the move again. This time to the Scottish Plant Breeding Station (SPBS) at Pentlandfield just south of Edinburgh when Dr Norman W Simmonds moved there in 1959. He rose through the ranks to become the station’s Director.

Dodds and his colleague Dr GJ Paxman traveled through South America during 1959-60, and their research on the genetics of diploid potatoes was based on some of the material collected. Dodds and Simmonds also collected potatoes in early 1963.

But that was not the end of the CPC’s peripatetic existence. It remained at the SPBS until the early 1980s, when the SPBS amalgamated with the Scottish Horticultural Research Institute (which became the Scottish Crop Research Institute or SCRI, and now known as the James Hutton Institute), and the collection moved to its present site near Dundee.

Today, the CPC comprises some 1500 samples or accessions of about 80 wild and cultivated potato species. And over two-thirds were collected by Hawkes himself. Another 9% of the collection were collected by Dodds and his colleagues, as mentioned earlier. The remainder represent donations over the years from various individuals and institutions.


I am not sure how much the CPC grew in the intervening years, but there was a significant boost to the size and importance of the collection around 1987. Let me explain.

As I already mentioned, Jack spent three years in Colombia from 1948, returning to the UK in 1951 when he was appointed Lecturer in Taxonomy in the Department of Botany at the University of Birmingham. He was given a personal chair as Professor of Taxonomic Botany in April 1961, and became Head of Department and Mason Professor of Botany in July 1967. He remained at Birmingham until retirement in September 1982.

It was during his Birmingham years that Jack’s work on the tuber-bearing Solanums expanded significantly with several important monographs and taxonomic revisions published, based on his own field work over the years and experimental studies back at Birmingham on the potato samples he brought back to the UK and which formed an important collection in its own right. Because of the quarantine threat from these seeds (particularly of sexually-transmitted pathogens or new variants of potato viruses already present in the UK), Jack had a special quarantine licence from the then Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Food (MAFF, now DEFRA) to maintain his collection at Birmingham.

In 1958, with Peter Hjerting and young research assistant Richard Lester (who later joined the Department of Botany as a Lecturer), Jack made a six month expedition to the USA , Mexico, and Central America.

Here is another account of that trip from the University of Birmingham Gazette. Besides potatoes, many other species were made for other institutions and botanic gardens.

Collecting a sample of Solanum agrimonifolium (No. 1854) in Guatemala. L: Jack Hawkes, Peter Hjerting, and Morse (driver?); R: Richard Lester

Just three months after I arrived at Birmingham in September 1970 to enrol on the MSc course on plant genetic resources, Jack was off on his travels once again, this time to Bolivia accompanied by Peter Hjerting once again, his research assistant Phil Cribb and, in South America by Zósimo Huamán from the International Potato Center (CIP) and Moisés Zavaleta and others from Bolivia.

This is the official trip report. Here are some images from the 1971 expedition, courtesy of Phil Cribb.

Jack and Peter made another trip to Bolivia in 1974 (with research assistant Dave Astley), and another in 1980. They published their monograph of The Potatoes of Bolivia in 1989.


In September 1971, Zósimo Huamán and Moisés Zavaleta came to Birmingham to study on the genetic resources MSc course. In that same cohort was a young botanist, Stephanie Tribble, recently graduated from the University of Wales – Swansea (now Swansea University). During the summer of 1972, Steph and I became ‘an item’, so-to-speak. However, by then I was already making plans to leave the UK and join CIP in Lima by January 1973, and on graduation, Steph was keen to find a position to use the experiences and skills she had gained on the course.

Just at that time, a Scientific Officer position opened at the SPBS, as assistant to Dalton Glendinning who was the curator of the CPC. Steph duly applied and was appointed from about October that year. Jack must have supported her application. Coincidentally, the MSc course external examiner was no other that Norman Simmonds who met Steph during his course assessment.

I moved to Peru in January 1973, and within a few days discovered that Jack had mentioned Steph to CIP’s Director General, Richard Sawyer. Well, to cut a long story short, Steph was offered a position as Assistant Geneticist at CIP, to support management of CIP’s large potato collection, similar to the role she’d had at Pentlandfield. She resigned from the SPBS and joined me in Lima in July that year. We married there in October, remaining with CIP in Peru and Central America for another eight years.

Steph working in one of CIP’s screen-houses at La Molina on the eastern outskirts of Lima in 1974.

In April 1981 I was appointed Lecturer in Plant Biology at Birmingham, 18 months before Jack’s retirement, the aim being that I would assume Jack’s teaching commitments on the MSc course. When I also took over the Hawkes potato collection in 1982, I had high hopes of identifying funding for biosystematics and pre-breeding research, and continuing the Birmingham focus on potatoes.

Dave Downing was the glasshouse technician who carefully managed the Hawkes collection at Birmingham for many years.

That was not the case, and as the collection needed a dedicated glasshouse and technician I could not justify (nor financially support) holding on to such valuable research space. And, in any case, continuing with the Hawkes collection was actually blocking the opportunities for other potato research because of the MAFF-imposed restrictions.

So, with some regret but also acknowledging that Jack’s collection would be better placed elsewhere, I contacted my colleagues at the CPC to see if they would be interested to receive it—lock, stock, and barrel. And that indeed was what happened. I’m sure many new potato lines were added to the CPC. The germplasm was placed in quarantine in the first instance, and has passed through various stages of testing before being added officially to the CPC. Throughout the 80s and 90s Jack would visit the CPC from time-to-time, and look through the materials, helping with the correct identification of species and the like.

Jack’s interest in and contributions to potato science remained with him almost up to his death in 2007. By then he had become increasingly frail, and had moved into a care home, his wife Barbara having passed away some years previously. By then, Jack’s reputation and legacy was sealed. Not only has his scientific output contributed to the conservation and use of potato genetic resources worldwide, embodied in the CPC that he helped establish all those decades earlier, but through the MSc course that he founded in 1969, hundreds of professionals worldwide have continued to carry the genetic conservation torch. A fine legacy, indeed!


¹ Glenn and I go back almost 30 years when, as a young scientist at the John Innes Centre (JIC) in Norwich, he was a member of a rice research project, funded by the British government, that brought together staff at the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in the Philippines where I was Head of the Genetic Resources Center, the University of Birmingham (where I had been a faculty member for a decade from 1981), and the JIC to use molecular markers to study IRRI’s large and globally-important germplasm collection conserved in its International Rice Genebank.

L-R: me, Glenn, and John Newbury (who later became professor at the University of Worcester) during a spot of sight-seeing near IRRI in 1993.


  • Originally published on 24 August 2021.

When east meets west . . . music happens!

Steph and I are not into live music concerts. It’s never been our thing, but . . .

. . . when visiting our elder daughter Hannah in St Paul, Minnesota in June 2003, she had three tickets to see Fleetwood Mac at the Xcel Energy Center in downtown St Paul. And just after we returned to the UK in May 2010, we enjoyed a concert by Mark Knopfler at bp pulse LIVE (formerly the LG Arena) in Birmingham.

Before those two concerts it must have been almost 30+ years since I’d attended any live concert, while I was still at university.

So what changed the habit of a lifetime? Last night (4 February) we enjoyed a concert at The Glasshouse International Centre for Music (formerly Sage Gateshead) on Gateshead quayside beside the River Tyne—right across the river from Newcastle city center. It was our first visit there.

The Glasshouse International Centre for Music on the south bank of the River Tune, taken from the Gateshead Millennium Bridge.

View west along the River Tyne from Baltic (a contemporary art center), with the Glasshouse International Centre for Music on the left, and the Millennium and Tyne Bridges (and others) connecting Gateshead with Newcastle on the right.

And the concert? Click on the banner below to open.

Just the one night in Gateshead, from a tour of eight venues between 31 January and 9 February. Tickets at just £39.40.

So why Transatlantic Sessions? We have been fans of this joyous fusion of Scottish, Irish, and American music since we first watched the various series on BBC4. Series 1 was broadcast in 1995, with subsequent series in 1998, 2007, 2009, 2011 and 2013, each comprising six programs. Here are the details of the programs and the many artists who have appeared over the years. This is what is written on the Sessions website:

. . . 2025 mark[s] 30 years since the original TV series first aired and continuing to explore and celebrate the rich musical traditions that connect Scotland, Ireland and the US. An annual focal point of Celtic Connections, the exclusive line-up combines guest singers and the celebrated house band, inviting them to interweave original material with age-old tunes and songs as they explore shared roots and find new common ground.

Here is just a sample of what you can enjoy. The complete series can also be viewed on YouTube, and listened to on Spotify (which I’m doing right now as I write this!). I came across Iris de Ment, who appeared on the first series, when viewing those videos.

Coordinated by musical co-directors Aly Bain MBE, a renowned fiddler from Shetland, and Jerry Douglas, a virtuoso dobro (resonator guitar) player from Ohio and a member of Alison Krauss and Union Station, the house band for 2025 had an impressive line-up, several regulars from the TV series, and some new faces as well.

Jerry Douglas (left) and Aly Bain (right).

The Transatlantic Sessions house band. L-R: Donald Shaw, Aly Bain, Daniel Kimbro, Phil Cunningham, Jerry Douglas, Allison de Groot, Michael McGoldrick, Tatiana Hargreaves, John Doyle, John McCusker, and James Mackintosh.

Old timers were John McCusker (fiddle), Michael McGoldrick (whistle, Irish flute, and uilleann or Irish pipes), Donald Shaw (piano, harmonium, and accordion), and James Mackintosh (drums). Phil Cunningham (accordion) was unable to participate last night due to some family issues.

Newcomers for 2025 were Allison de Groot (banjo) from Canada, Tatiana Hargreaves (fiddle) and Daniel Kimbro (electric and upright bass) from the USA, and John Doyle (guitar) from Ireland (who has appeared from time to time over the years). Daniel and John also performed solo self-penned songs.


Last night’s concert was a mix of house band sets interspersed by individual ones from the guest artists, who were for 2025:

L-R: Julie Fowlis, Niall McCabe, and Larry Campbell and Teresa Williams.

Singer Julie Fowlis (whistle, bagpipes) was born in North Uist in the Outer Hebrides. In fact, she comes from the village of Hougharry on the west coast (so I was told), which I visited in 1966 and 1967, and returned there with Steph in 2015. In last night’s show, she sang several songs in Gaelic, and joined the house band on the whistle and, at the end of the show, playing the bagpipes.

Here she is singing (and playing the pipes) Hug Air a’ Bhinaid Mhoir (recorded in Glasgow at the start of the 2025 tour just a few nights ago), to great audience acclaim last night.

Irish singer-songwriter Niall McCabe was born on Clare Island off the coast of Co. Mayo in Ireland and sang his own material.

Larry Campbell (electric guitar, mandolin) and Teresa Williams (vocals) are a dynamic duo from the USA, hailing from New York and Tennessee, respectively. Besides performing their own mini-sets, Larry played in the house band, and Teresa provided backing vocals, even in Gaelic when Julie Fowlis was performing. Their gospel song in the second half was a tour de force.

And lastly, the inimitable Loudon Wainwright III, a larger-than-life performer who we first came across in the the late 1980s, when he guested on the 1987 BBC show Carrott Confidential, hosted by Birmingham-born comedian Jasper Carrott.

Here is Loudon singing one of my favorite songs, Harry’s Wall, which was released on his album Therapy in 1989.

Wainwright also appeared in three episodes of M*A*S*H, as singing surgeon Captain Calvin Spalding during 1974-1975. We caught up with those episodes when we were living in the Philippines during the 1990s.

In last night’s concert I particularly enjoyed Wainwright’s version of Harmless (or Hermless) by the late Dundee bard, Michael Marra (a great friend of his). Here’s a link to a version on Spotify that Wainwright has recorded.


The concert lasted almost three hours, with a short intermission. It was originally scheduled for a little longer, but since Phil Cunningham could not appear – who I assume would have had a couple of solo sets – it finished just before 22:30.

It began, as Jerry Douglas explained, with a set of three reels to get the band warmed up, so to speak. As if they needed it. No-one was reading from sheet music. How they keep all those tunes stored away in their minds!

One thing in particular, struck me. How everyone on stage worked together, more than the sum of the parts. If anyone had an ego, that was left at the Stage Door. Impressive.

Unfortunately there was no program, so I can’t provide details of the sets. We thoroughly enjoyed the mix of Scottish and Irish melodies (reels and the like), Appalachian, and gospel music, even contemporary compositions, blended with the backing from the house band. One of the most impressive performances was a song—in Gaelic—by Julie Fowlis, accompanied mostly by Donald Shaw on the harmonium.

The Sage One auditorium (holding >1600) was full. Sold Out! We had great center seats at the back of the auditorium.

The view from Row DD, Level 1.

An acquaintance of Facebook kindly sent me these photos that he took during the concert:

Taking a bow . . .

Two final observations. It was interesting to ponder the demographics of the audience, very few under 50, and probably an average age in their 60s. Lots of grey heads, and (so I thought) a higher proportion of beards than you might see in the general population.

All too soon, 22:30 rolled round, and it was time for the encore. What a great evening, and such a pleasure to see these fine musicians live.

We look forward to Transatlantic Sessions returning to Gateshead in 2026.


 

Reflections of a 1990s genebanker

Since I started this blog in February 2012, I have written a number of stories about rice genetic resources and their conservation at the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in the Philippines, one of the centers of the Consultative Group on Agricultural Research (CGIAR).

Written over several years, there is inevitably some overlap between the posts. I have now brought them together. Just click on the red boxes below to read each one or expand an image.

I was privileged to manage the International Rice Genebank at IRRI (the IRG, formerly known as the International Rice Germplasm Center or IGRC until 1995) for a decade from July 1991, as Head of the Genetic Resources Center (GRC) [1].

The IRRI campus at Los Baños, 70 km south of Manila. The Brady Laboratory (second from left) houses the genebank cold stores.

There are twelve CGIAR genebanks, and IRRI’s is one of the largest. It’s certainly the oldest. In April, IRRI will celebrate its 65th anniversary [2]. For almost six and a half decades, IRRI has successfully managed the world’s largest collection of rice genetic resources (farmer or landrace varieties, improved varieties, wild rice species, genetic stocks, and the like).

There’s perhaps no crop more important than rice. It’s the staple food of half the world’s population on a daily basis. The genebank is a crucial resource for plant breeders who use the germplasm to sustain and increase agricultural productivity, with the aim of reducing hunger among the world’s poor.

IRRI released the first of the semi-dwarf varieties in the 1960s; many others have followed over the decades, with increasingly more complex pedigrees.

Pedigree of rice variety IR72 showing 22 landraces (boxes with bold lines) and one wild species, Oryza nivara. In contrast, IR8, the first of the widely-grown modern semi-dwarf varieties (indicated by the arrow) had only three landraces in its pedigree.

When I joined IRRI, there were just over 70,000 seed samples (or accessions as they are known in genebank parlance) in the genebank.

During the 1990s, the collection grew by about 30% to a little over 100,000 accessions. This was quite remarkable in itself, given that the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD) had come into effect in 1992, and for for at least a decade or more thereafter, many countries were reluctant to share their national germplasm until benefit-sharing mechanisms had been worked out. It says a lot about the mutual respect between national programs (particularly in Asia) and IRRI that we were able to mount a significant program to collect rice varieties and wild species. But more on that later.

Today the collection is approaching 135,000 accessions, safely duplicated in the Svalbard Global Seed Vault (SGSV, under the auspices of the Government of Norway and the Crop Trust). Prior to 1991, and for at least the next decade or more, duplicates samples were also held in so-called ‘black box’ storage at the National Laboratory for Genetic Resources Preservation in Fort Collins, Colorado. I’m not sure whether IRRI has continued its arrangement with Fort Collins now that the SGSV is open.

When the SGSV vault was opened in 2008, IRRI deposited more than 70,000 accessions, the first to be registered in the Vault. Since then, IRRI has made six more deposits, for a total of 133,707 accessions, almost the entire collection.

Given the amount of publicity that the SGSV has received, one could be forgiven for not knowing that there are many more genebanks around the world.

Inevitably there has been some misguided (as far as I’m concerned) criticism of the SGSV that I attempted to rebut in the next post.

The IRRI genebank became the first genebank of the CGIAR system to be identified by the Crop Trust for in-perpetuity funding that will ensure the availability of the conserved germplasm decades into the future.

The fact that IRRI was able to deposit so many accessions in the SGSV and receive in-perpetuity funding is due—in no small part—to the many changes we made to the management of the genebank and its collection during the 1990s. And which pre-emptively prepared it for the changes that all the CGIAR genebanks would eventually have to make.

But I’m getting ahead of myself just a little.

Although I had been involved with the conservation and use of plant genetic resources since 1970 (when I arrived at the University of Birmingham to attend the one-year MSc course on genetic conservation), I’d never worked on rice nor managed a genebank when I joined IRRI in 1991. All my experience to date had been with potatoes in South and Central America, and several grain legumes while teaching at Birmingham during the 1980s.

1991 was a fortuitous time to join IRRI. I was recruited by Director General Klaus Lampe (right), who had been appointed by the institute’s Board of Trustees in 1998 to revive the institute’s fortunes and refurbish its ageing infrastructure.

Lampe was very supportive of the genetic resources program, and it helped that I had a senior position as a department head, so was able to meet with him directly on a regular basis to discuss my plans for the genebank.

Before 1991 quite a number of staff retired, including the previous and first head of the IRGC, Dr Te-Tzu Chang (known universally simple as ‘TT’). TT and I had very different management styles, and I was determined to involve my genebank staff in the changes that I believed should be made. I spent six months determining how the genebank operations could be significantly enhanced.

As I said, Klaus Lampe was supportive, approving recruitment of junior staff to help with the considerable backlog of seed samples for cleaning and registering in the genebank, as well as including the genebank in the institute’s program of infrastructure refurbishment and equipment upgrades.

These two posts describe many of the changes we made, and include a video about the genebank that I made in 2010 just before I left IRRI.

I was fortunate to inherit a great group of staff, totally dedicated to the genetic conservation cause, and much more knowledgeable about rice than I ever became [3].

I quickly identified Ms Flora ‘Pola’ de Guzman (all Filipinos have a nickname) as a potential genebank manager, and she continued in that role until her retirement a couple of years back. When the in-perpetuity agreement was signed in 2018, Pola was given a special award, recognising her 40 years service to the conservation of rice genetic resources.

Inside the International Rice Genebank Active Collection, with genebank manager Pola de Guzman

I asked Renato ‘Ato’ Reaño to manage all the genebank’s field operations. Ato has also now retired.

One of the key aspects that had to be addressed was data management. As you can imagine, for a collection of 70,000+ accessions that I inherited in 1991, there was a mountain of data about provenance, as well data on morphological characters and response to biotic and abiotic stresses, across the cultivated rices (two different species) and 20+ wild species of Oryza. Essentially there were three databases that couldn’t effectively talk to each other. Big changes had to be made, which I described in this post.

It took almost two years, but when completed we had developed the International Rice Genebank Collection Information System (IRGCIS) to manage all the operations of the genebank. It has now been superseded by an international system based on the US-developed germplasm information network, GRIN.

That information situation also reminds of another information ‘bee in my bonnet’, which I wrote about here.

In my interviews at IRRI in January 1991, I stressed the need for the genebank to carry out research, something that had not been contemplated when the GRC position was advertised the previous year. In fact, I made it a condition of accepting a job offer that the genebank should conduct germplasm-relevant research, such as studies of seed survival, rice taxonomy, and the management of the collection.

I had concerns that we had insufficient information about the longevity of seeds in storage, or how the environment at Los Baños affected the quality of rice seeds grown there. We developed new seed production protocols, and post-harvest management in terms of seed drying. We installed a bespoke seed drying room with a capacity of over 1 tonne of seeds. In the 2000s (after I had moved from GRC to a senior management position at IRRI), seed physiologist Fiona Hay was recruited who improved on the seed handling protocols that we developed and which had already shown to be effective in increasing seed quality for long-term conservation.

Early in the decade, and with funding from the British government, we set up a collaborative project with my former colleagues at the University of Birmingham as well as at the John Innes Centre to study how molecular markers could be used to study the diversity in the rice collection and its management.

In 1994, we received a large grant (>USD 2.3 million) from the Swiss government:

  • to collect rice varieties and wild species throughout Asia, Africa, and parts of South America (essentially to try and complete the collecting of germplasm that had been little explored);
  • to conduct research about on-farm management of rice genetic resources; and
  • to train personnel from national germplasm programs in collecting, conservation techniques, and data management.

During the 1990s, IRRI had a special rice project with the Government of Laos, and a staff member based in Vientiane. Since little rice germplasm had been collected in that country, we recruited Dr Seepana Appa Rao to collect rice varieties there.

Appa Rao (right) and his Lao counterpart, Dr Chay Bounphanousay (left) sampling a rice variety from a Lao farmer.

Over a five year period he and his Lao colleagues collected more than 13,000 samples, now safely conserved in the International Rice Genebank. We also built a small genebank near Vientiane to house the germplasm locally.

My colleagues and I were quite productive in terms of research and publications. This post lists all the publications on which I was author/co-author, and there are links therein to PDF copies of many of them.

Every year, IRRI receives thousands of visitors, and when I first arrived at IRRI, it seemed as if anyone and everyone who wanted to visit the genebank was allowed to do so. On more than one occasion—until I put a stop to it—I’d find our colleagues from Visitor Services taking a large party of visitors, hordes of schoolchildren even, into the cold stores. With such large numbers it was not possible to keep all the doors closed, disrupting the carefully controlled temperature and humidity environment in the genebank and its laboratories.

I had to limit the number of visitors inside the genebank significantly, and ask my staff to take some of the load of attending to visitors. Nevertheless, I do understand the need to explain the importance of genetic resources and the role of the genebank to visitors, and build a constituency who can support the genebank and what it aims to achieve.

But it was a joy to meet with visitors such as wheat breeder, ‘Father of the Green Revolution’, and 1970 Nobel Peace Laureate, Dr Norman Borlaug.

With Dr Norman Borlaug in the IRG Active Collection in the early 1990s, before we transferred the germplasm to aluminum pouches.

Finally, let me say something about IRRI’s genetic conservation role in the context of the CGIAR.

In the early 1990s, the heads of the CGIAR genebanks would meet each year as the Inter-Center Working Group on Genetic Resources (ICWG-GR). I attended my first meeting in January 1993 in Addis Ababa at the International Livestock Centre for Africa (ILCA, now part of the International Livestock Research Institute or ILRI). I was elected chair for three years, and during my tenure the System-wide Genetic Resources Program (SGRP) was launched with the ICWG-GR as its steering committee.

Earlier I mentioned the CBD. There’s no doubt that during the 1990s the whole realm of genetic resources became highly politicized, with the CGIAR centers contributing to CBD discussions as they related to agricultural biodiversity, and through the FAO Commission on Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture.

The organization of the genebanks in the CGIAR has undergone several iterations since I moved away from this area in May 2001 (when I joined IRRI’s senior management team as Director for Program Planning and Communications). My successor Dr Ruaraidh Sackville Hamilton enthusiastically took on the role of representing the institute in the discussions on the formulation and implementation of the International Treaty on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture (ITPGRFA). The Treaty aims to guarantee food security through the conservation, exchange, and sustainable use of the world’s plant genetic resources for food and agriculture. It also focuses on fair and equitable benefit sharing and recognition of farmers’ rights.

In 2016-17, I led a review of the Genebanks CRP (CGIAR Research Program). Since then, the Genebanks CRP evolved into the Genebank Platform, and is now the CGIAR Initiative on Genebanks.

What I can say is that all the CGIAR genebanks have raised their game with respect to the crops they conserve. Working with the Crop Trust, standards have increased, and genebanks held to account more rigorously in terms of how they are being managed. Nevertheless, I think that we can say that the CGIAR continues to play one of the major roles in genetic resources conservation worldwide.


[1] GRC comprised two units: the genebank (my day-to-day responsibility), and the International Network for the Genetic Evaluation of Rice or INGER, which was managed basis by one of my colleagues.

[2] It seems like only yesterday that I was organizing the institute’s Golden Jubilee in 2010, after which I retired and returned to the UK.

[3] Three key staff, Ms Eves Loresto, Tom Clemeno, and Ms. Amita ‘Amy’ Juliano sadly passed away, as have several other junior staff.

 

Unsurpassed beauty, nature, and thousands of years of history: the value of our heritage charities

For many years, Steph and I toyed with becoming members of the National Trust. But as we were living overseas, and only coming back to the UK each year on leave for just a few weeks, we didn’t think it was worth the membership cost.

However, when I retired in April 2010 and we moved back to the UK, we became members in February 2011. Since then, we have visited 153 properties, mostly historic houses and gardens, but also some of the most beautiful landscapes protected by the Trust, such as the White Cliffs of Dover and the Durham coast

We received gift membership of English Heritage (which cares for 400 historic places) at Christmas 2014, and made our first visits as members by April 2015. We had visited Witley Court, Worcestershire near our home in Bromsgrove several times before becoming members, and Belsay Hall, Dunstanburgh Castle, and Rievaulx Abbey when visiting our younger daughter in the northeast of England. Now that we live near Newcastle upon Tyne, we have in fact explored more English Heritage sites than National Trust locally; compared to further south, there are relatively few National Trust properties here.

Visiting these heritage sites gives us a purpose to get out of the house, benefit our physical and mental welfare, and to explore and learn more about the history of this nation of ours.

Over recent years, we have also taken week-long breaks or longer in various parts of the country to visit many of the heritage properties there. Such as Scotland in 2015, Northern Ireland in 2017, Cornwall in 2018, Kent and East Sussex in 2019, Hampshire and West Sussex in 2022, North Wales in 2023, and East Anglia in 2024.

This map shows all the National Trust and English Heritage properties we have now visited. You will have to zoom in to see more of the detail. There are also links to properties managed by partner organizations like the National Trust for Scotland, Historic Environment Scotland, and Cadw in Wales, as well as a few other sites not affiliated to any of these.

On this page, you can find a list of all 239 properties we have visited, by region, with links to a blog post I wrote, perhaps a photo album, or the official website. In any case, my blog posts are lavishly illustrated by my own photographs. There are also regional maps.

Just under a year ago, I wrote about some of the favorite places we had visited. Today’s blog updates the numbers somewhat.


The National Trust was the vision of its three founders in 1885: Octavia Hill, Canon Hardwicke Rawnsley, and Sir Robert Hunter.

Last week, on 12 January to be precise, the National Trust celebrated its 130th anniversary, and launched a 10-year strategy to 2035, People and Nature Thriving.

Today, the National Trust looks after more than 250,000 hectares of farmland, 780 miles of coastline and 500 historic places, gardens and nature reserves.

And despite the best (or worst) efforts of campaign group and forum Restore Trust to undermine the credibility, management, and success of the National Trust as a charity, the National Trust is overwhelmingly supported by its members (as evidenced from the support at last November’s AGM held in Newcastle), and provides a warm welcome for its thousands of members and visitors at all its sites.


As I was drafting this post, I realised that I’d first visited a couple of properties, Dovedale in Derbyshire and Little Moreton Hall near Congleton, in Cheshire more than 70 years ago, and another, Biddulph Grange, decades before the National Trust acquired the garden.

The Stepping Stones in Dovedale. That’s me, on the right beside my mother, along with my brothers and sister and cousins. I reckon this photo was taken around 1951.

My father was the staff photographer at the Congleton Chronicle, and I remember visiting Little Moreton Hall with him when he took this photo and others of the Manley Morris men in 1954.

The Manley Morris Men at Little Moreton Hall on 8 May 1954.

As to Biddulph Grange, Dad (and Mum) would visit the hospital on Christmas Day and take photos of Santa visiting the wards. Even after we moved to Leek in 1956 and Dad was no longer with the Congleton Chronicle, they would return to Biddulph Grange each Christmas until the early 1960s.

And attend some of the social functions held there for staff and friends. When Steph and I visited Biddulph Grange together for the first time in 2011, there was on display an album of photos about the previous history of the property as a hospital. I recognised many as taken by my Dad. Including this one at a staff summer dance. My mother is standing, fifth from the left, on the fourth row. I snapped this one on my phone.

Two Bs, two Ps, seven Us, and nine Ds

Education is a wonderful thing, and my family and I have taken advantage of the opportunities a good education opens up.

As I read an email a few days ago from the University of Birmingham, announcing its 125th anniversary celebrations later this year, my mind wandered back to 1975.

That was when the university celebrated the centennial of laying of the foundation stone of the Mason Science College in 1875, itself a successor of Queen’s College, founded in 1825 as a medical college. HM The Queen visited the university in 1975 to celebrate that centennial, seen in this photo with the university Chancellor, Sir Peter Scott (on the right) and the Vice-Chancellor, Dr Robert Hunter (later Baron Hunter of Newington, on the left). I was in the crowd there, somewhere.

I was back at Birmingham for a few months (from the International Potato Center or CIP in Lima, Peru where I was working as an Associate Taxonomist) to complete the residency requirements for my PhD, and to submit my dissertation. I successfully defended that in late October, and the degree was conferred by Sir Peter Scott at a congregation on 12 December. In the photo below, my PhD supervisor and Mason Professor of Botany, Jack Hawkes is on my right, and Dr Trevor Williams on my left.

But I’m getting a little ahead of myself.

My first experience of Birmingham was in the late Spring of 1967, when I sat the Joint Matriculation Board Advanced or ‘A’ Level biology practical exam in the First Year Lab in the School of Biological Sciences. Many high schools took advantage of that arrangement if they had insufficient facilities in their own premises to hold the exam.

Going into my ‘A’ level exams I had ambitions to attend university. Not that I’d applied to Birmingham. That honour went to the University of Southampton where I had been accepted to study for a BSc degree in environmental botany and geography.

As ‘baby boomers’ my elder brother Edgar and I were the first in our family and among all our cousins to attend university. Once Edgar had persuaded our parents that he wanted to go to university (1964-1967) it was easier for me to follow that same path three years later.

I enjoyed my three years at Southampton. Although I’d registered for a combined degree in environmental botany and geography, my interests shifted significantly towards botany by my third and final year.

However, graduating in July 1970 and with just a BSc under my belt, I knew I’d have to pursue graduate studies to achieve my ambition of working overseas. And it was at the beginning of my final year at Southampton that a one year taught MSc course on the Conservation and Utilisation of Plant Genetic Resources was launched at Birmingham, under the leadership of Jack Hawkes. One of the lecturers at Southampton, geneticist Dr Joe Smartt, suggested that I should apply.

Which I duly did, and after an interview at Birmingham was offered a place for the following September, subject to funding being available for a maintenance grant and tuition fees. It was not until the course was about to commence that Professor Hawkes could confirm the financial support. By mid-September I headed to Birmingham, and the beginning of an association with the university that lasted several decades, as both student and member of staff.

I was awarded the MSc degree in December 1971. During that year, Hawkes (a world-renowned potato expert) had arranged for me to join CIP in Lima for just a year (which later extended to more than eight years) to help conserve its important collection of native potato varieties. An opportunity I jumped at. However, funding from the British government was not confirmed until late 1972. Instead of kicking my heels waiting for that funding to be confirmed, and concerned I might find a position elsewhere, Hawkes raised a small grant to allow me to begin a PhD project under his supervision, and that I would continue after arriving  in Peru.

A third cohort of students arrived in Birmingham in September 1971, among them Stephanie Tribble from Southend-on-Sea who had just graduated from the University College of Swansea (now Swansea University) with a degree in botany. By the summer of 1972 Steph and I had become an item.

In November 1972 she joined the Scottish Plant Breeding Station (SPBS) at Pentlandfield, south of Edinburgh, as assistant curator of the Commonwealth Potato Collection. She returned to Birmingham in December for the MSc degree congregation, just three weeks before I was due to fly out to Peru at the beginning of January 1973.

Well, things have a habit of turning out for the best. Once I was in Peru, I asked Steph to marry me and join me in Lima where I knew there would be a position for her at CIP. Resigning from the SPBS, she arrived in early July and we were married in the local registry office in Lima in October.

So that’s two botanists, three universities (Southampton, Swansea, and Birmingham), and five degrees (2xBSc, 2xMSc, 1xPhD) between us.


After another fruitful five years with CIP based in Costa Rica after I’d completed my PhD (during which our elder daughter Hannah was born), a lectureship opened in the Department of Plant Biology at Birmingham, so I applied. I flew back from Peru for an interview, and having been offered the position, I joined the university on 1 April 1981.

Much of my teaching focused on the genetic resources MSc course that was accepting ever more numbers of students from around the world. I remained at Birmingham for a decade, before deciding that I wasn’t really cut out for academia and, in any case, a more exciting opportunity had presented itself at the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in the Philippines. I joined IRRI as head of the Genetic Resources Center in July 1991, remaining in that position for almost a decade. In May 2001, I was appointed Director for Program Planning and Communications (DPPC), joining the institute’s senior management team, until my retirement in April 2010.

During the 1990s, I had an excellent research collaboration with my former colleagues in the School of Biological Sciences at Birmingham, and each year when I returned to the UK on home leave, I’d spend time in the university discussing our research as well as delivering several lectures to the MSc students, for which the university appointed me an Honorary Senior Lecturer.


As I mentioned before, Hannah was born in 1978 when we were living in Costa Rica. Once back in the UK her younger sister Philippa was born in 1982 in the small market town of Bromsgrove, about 13 miles south of the University of Birmingham in north Worcestershire.

Both girls thrived in Bromsgrove, enjoyed school, and each had a good circle of friends.

We upended their world when I took the position at IRRI and they moved to the Philippines with Steph just after Christmas 1991. Even more challenging was their enrolment in the International School Manila, which had a US-based curriculum, and eventually an academic stream based on the International Baccalaureate (IB). There’s no doubt that the first year was tough. Not only was it challenging academically, but living 70 km south of Manila, IRRI students were bussed into school each day departing around 04:30 to begin classes at 07:30, and returning by 16:30, or later if there were holdups on the highway, as was often the case.

Despite the bumpy start, Hannah and Phil rose to the challenge and achieved outstanding scores on the IB in 1995 and 1999 respectively.

From the outset, attending university had been part of our plan for them, and an ambition they readily embraced. Both took a gap year between high school and university. Hannah was drawn towards Psychology, with a minor in Anthropology. And she discovered that this combination was offered at few universities in the UK, opting to attend Swansea University in 1996. And although she was on course to excel academically, half way through her second year she asked if she could transfer to Macalester College, a liberal arts college in Minnesota, USA.

Macalester graduation in May 2000, with Hannah and Michael facing the camera.

Graduating Summa cum laude in May 2000 from Macalester, with a BA in Psychology and a minor in Anthropology, Hannah was then accepted into a graduate program in the Department of Psychology at the University of Minnesota in the Twin Cities.

She was awarded her PhD in Industrial and Organizational Psychology in 2006 with a thesis that assessed the behaviour and ethical misconduct of senior leaders in the workplace.

Hannah (right) with her peers in Industrial & organizational Psychology

That’s one psychologist, another two universities (Macalester and Minnesota), and two more degrees (BA, PhD).

Remaining in Minnesota, she married Michael (also a Macalester graduate) in 2006, became a US citizen, and has a senior position focused on talent management and performance with one of the largest international conglomerates. They have two children: Callum (14) and Zoë (12).


After a gap year, Philippa began her studies in Psychology at Durham University in 2000, graduating with a 2:i BSc degree three years later. Uncertain what path then to follow, she moved to Vancouver for a year, before having to return to the UK at short notice after the Canadian government refused to renew her work visa.

Post-graduation, outside Durham Cathedral.

She spent six months looking for a job, finally landing a research assistantship in the Brain, Performance and Nutrition Research Centre in the Department of Psychology at Northumbria University in Newcastle upon Tyne. After a couple of years she began her own PhD studies investigating the effects of bioactive lipids such as omega-3 fatty acids on cognition and brain health. She was awarded her PhD in December 2010.

Post-graduation with Steph and me, and Andi.

She’s the second psychologist in the family, with two more universities and two degrees (BSc, PhD) under her belt.

Philippa is now Director of the Brain, Performance and Nutrition Research Centre, and Associate Professor in Biological Psychology at Northumbria.

She married Andi in September 2010 (taking themselves off to New York to get married), and have two sons: Elvis (13) and Felix (11).


Two botanists and two psychologists. Who’d have thought it? Neither Hannah nor Philippa showed any interest in pursuing biology at degree level. Having two psychologists in the family we do wonder, from time-to-time, if we went wrong somewhere along the line.

Music stirs hidden memories . . .

Hidden but not forgotten. They are just lurking deep in the mind’s archive waiting to be awakened.

And that’s what happened to me just the other afternoon. I was listening to Classic FM. Well, just hearing really, not paying attention as I was reading a book at the time. High brow Muzak.

Pachelbel’s Canon in D major. A popular piece of music (number 35/300 in the Classic FM Hall of Fame 2024 chosen by listeners), by German composer Johann Pachelbel (right, 1653-1706), although its date of composition is not known with any certainty.

As I put my book down and listened more attentively, lots of memories resurfaced from my time in Lima, Peru in the early 1970s.

Here’s the twist, however. I’m not sure all those years ago if it was Pachelbel’s Canon or the  Adagio in G minor by ‘Tomaso Albinoni’ that I heard. Let me explain.

I’m guessing it was sometime between December 1973 and March 1974. So why should I zero in on those particular months?

I know it was post-July 1973 because that’s when Steph joined me in Lima. And before April 1975, because that’s when we returned to the UK for a few months. And in any case we had already given up our apartment in Miraflores after the October 1974 earthquake, and spent the next six months house-sitting for colleagues from the International Potato Center (CIP) where Steph and I worked.

I do remember it was a weekend, and the weather was glorious. Bright and sunny, and rather hot, typical Lima summer weather (unlike the gloomy, foggy days of the middle months of the year). We’d left our apartment to go shopping, and pick up copies of Time and Newsweek from a bookshop in the San Isidro district that we often visited. This particular bookshop or libreria was located in a small shopping center overlooking Avda. Paseo de la Republica/Via Expressa, just opposite the Petroperú building.

I don’t think it’s there any more. I’ve looked on Google Maps and Streetview and it looks like the area has been redeveloped in the intervening decades. I hardly recognise any of the surroundings.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, we also decided to browse the bookshop’s music section. And in the background, I heard this piece of music I’d never heard before. The Canon or the Adagio? I don’t recall. But both pieces were on the same vinyl that I purchased there and then! I’ve enjoyed both ever since.


Tomaso Albinoni (left below, 1671-1751) was a Venetian composer, but did he write the Adagio in G minor? Is it a musical hoax? Its composition is attributed to Italian musicologist Remo Giazotto (right below, 1910-1998), an expert on Albinoni. He is said to have composed/elaborated the Adagio based on a fragment of one of Albinoni’s manuscripts while others believe he composed the whole piece. Certainly Giazotto had the copyright.

I was totally unaware of this interesting back story. Nevertheless, it is a beautiful and much appreciated piece of music, that gained position 170/300 in the Classic FM Hall of Fame 2024. Enjoy this interpretation.


 

That was the year that was . . .

New Year’s Eve, and another year coming to a close.

We just celebrated our fifth Christmas here in the northeast, on the eastern outskirts of Newcastle upon Tyne and a few miles inland from the North Sea coast. I thought I’d take this opportunity to look back on some of our 2024 highlights.

In the walled garden at Cragside, a National Trust property near Rothbury in Northumberland, in early December.

We’re both now in our mid-70s and fortunately keeping in reasonably good health. Steph has her daily yoga session before breakfast. I try (but don’t always succeed) to take a daily walk locally. As often as possible—weather-permitting—we head out to explore more of the glorious landscapes here in the northeast of England.

This past year, we’ve explored some new beaches just 10-15 miles north, at Cambois (pronounced Ka-miss) and Newbiggin-by-the-Sea, as well as returning to one of our favorite haunts: Hauxley Wildlife Discovery Centre, where there is always an abundance of bird species to observe. And it was there, around August, that I was able to tick one bird off my ornithological bucket list: a kingfisher, that we watched for almost 30 minutes from the Wildlife Centre café, as it flew from branch to branch beside the lake, occasionally diving for fish. What a sight! It’s only taken me almost 70 years!

On the beach at Newbiggin at the beginning of November

At the end of June we headed south of the River Tyne into Teesdale to visit one of the most spectacular waterfalls in the country, at High Force on the River Tees.

Afterwards, we headed up to Cow Green Reservoir in the hope of seeing some of the special Teesdale flora there, but they were past flowering. But we did enjoy crossing over into Weardale to the north, and exploring upland landscapes that were new to us.

Crossing north from Teesdale into Weardale

In mid-August we set off early one bright and sunny morning 55 miles north towards the border with Scotland, to visit four ancient sites. First of all there was the site of the Battle of Flodden Field, fought in 1513 between King James IV of Scotland and King Henry VIII of England, and in which James was killed.

The site of the Battle of Flodden Field. near Braxton Hill.

From there we headed to the Duddo Five Stones Circle, dating from the Neolithic/Bronze Age, and from where there are panoramic views of the Cheviot Hills to the south and the Lammermuir Hills to the north.

Then it was on to two castles managed by English Heritage at Etal and Norham, the latter overlooking the River Tweed, which is the border between England and Scotland. In fact, all four sites were within an easy 10 miles of each other, but it was nevertheless quite a full day. I wrote about those four visits in this post.

There is just a handful of National Trust properties in the northeast, among them Gibside (west of Newcastle), Seaton Delaval Hall (close to home), Wallington, and Cragside, all of which we visited this year.

Each Christmas we try to visit one of Trust properties to see their Christmas decorations. And this year it was Cragside and Seaton Delaval in early December, where there was the most enormous bauble hanging from the ceiling of the main hall (which was destroyed by fire at the beginning of the 19th century).

Other excursions south of the Tyne took us to York in early March to meet up with my nephew Nicholas and his wife Metta from Edmonton, Canada. Nicholas is the younger son of my late elder brother Edgar and wife Linda. Philippa joined us on this trip as she hadn’t seen Nicholas since he was a small boy. We enjoyed a satisfying pub lunch before taking a walk around the city walls.

In April, we headed south again, calling in at Mount Grace Priory for a welcome cup of coffee before heading on to our destination, Byland Abbey. En route, we stopped off at the Church of St Mary the Virgin beside the A19 trunk road south that we’d often passed but never taken the opportunity to stop. I wrote about both visits in this post.

The west front of Byland Abbey

We have to travel much further afield now to find National Trust and English Heritage properties new to us. So in September we spent a week in East Anglia, visiting twelve properties over six days. I wrote about that trip here. We rented a small cottage on a farm near the Suffolk market town of Eye.

It’s hard to choose a favorite property, but if ‘forced’ to it would be Blickling Hall. What an awesome view along the gravel drive to the entrance of this magnificent Jacobean country house.

Our big trip of the year was our annual visit from early May to June (just over three weeks) to stay with Hannah and family in St Paul, Minnesota. After our last road trip in 2019 I had wondered if we’d make another one. But nothing ventured nothing gained, we decided to hit the road again, crossing Utah and Colorado, and visiting some of the best national parks and enjoying some spectacular desert and Rocky Mountain landscapes. You can read about that trip in this post.

Flying into Las Vegas, we immediately headed to the Hoover Dam, then traveling north to Zion National Park, and on to Bryce Canyon National Park. Heading east we visited Arches and Canyonlands National Parks near Moab in eastern Utah. Then we crossed over into Colorado taking in the ‘Million Dollar Highway’ south through the San Juan range before arriving at Mesa Verde National Park. From there we headed east to Denver for the flight back to Minneapolis-St Paul.

Without doubt Bryce Canyon National Canyon was the highlight of the trip, but only just ahead of all the other fascinating places we visited.

We had a delightful time with Hannah, Michael, Callum (then 13), and Zoë (12), and their doggies Bo and Ollie, and cat Hobbes (sadly no longer with us).

Enjoying the warm weather in St Paul, we spent much of our time relaxing in the garden, taking walks around the neighbourhood, or sitting on the front patio in the late afternoon/early evening just watching the world go by on Mississippi River Boulevard (Hannah’s house is just 50 m from the bluff overlooking the Mississippi River), savouring a gin and tonic (or two).

At the end of July, Callum and Zoë flew over to Newcastle to spend a couple of weeks with us, but more importantly to hang out with their cousins Elvis (now 13) and Felix (now 11), Phil and Andi’s boys.

Arrival at NCL on 25 July

They all went camping (a first for Callum and Zoë) to Bamburgh on the north Northumberland coast, and we spent a day with them.

All too soon, their visit came to an end, but it seems plans are afoot for them to repeat the visit in 2025.

We enjoyed a couple of outings with Elvis and Felix during the year—they are so busy with all their extracurricular activities—to Belsay Hall, and we enjoyed a performance of the Alice in Wonderland pantomime in Newcastle just before Christmas.

We spent Christmas Day with Phil and Andi and family followed, on Boxing Day, by a brisk walk at Souter Lighthouse and Marsden Beach.

I’m sure there must have been other things we got up to but I don’t recall. These have certainly been many of the year’s highlights.

So as the year comes to an end, I’ll take this opportunity to wish all my followers on this blog (and others who come across it by chance) A Happy, Peaceful, and Prosperous New Year 2025!


My blog activity was much reduced this past year, just 30 stories posted with 46,000 words compared to previous years, although on average each post was longer.

I’m not sure why I’ve been less productive. While I felt quite elated mid-year about the General Election win by Labour, having booted the Conservatives out after 14 years in power, I have to admit to becoming rather depressed at the beginning of November when Donald Trump reclaimed the US presidency. His occupancy of the White House does not bode well for 2025.


 

An unlikely trinity . . .

What comprises an unlikely trinity? Music, science, and film. Let me explain.

It’s remarkable how a piece of music can resurrect memories from the deep recesses of one’s mind.

Christoph W Gluck

Just as Steph and I sat down to dinner last Saturday evening, I chose a CD (always classical) to play in the background as we ate. I’ve no idea precisely why I chose the opera Orfeo ed Euridice (first performed in October 1762) by Christoph Willibald Gluck other than it’s one of my favorite pieces of music. There’s one aria in particular, Che farò senza Euridice? (from Act 3) sung by the character of Orfeo, that became a signature concert piece for British soprano Kathleen Ferrier. And it’s a recording of hers that I remember from my childhood in the early 1950s. Ferrier died at age 41 in 1953, and I was born in 1948.

Traditionally however, Orfeo is played/sung by a counter tenor. And in this Philips release (CD 434 093-2, and available on Spotify) the counter tenor is Derek Lee Ragin.

Enjoy the power of Ragin’s voice as he reaches the highest notes in Che farò. Sends shivers down my spine.

I first came across this John Eliot Gardiner/Ragin/Sylvia McNair collaboration on a Lufthansa flight from the Philippines (where I was working at the International Rice Research Institute) to Dublin, Ireland (via Frankfurt) around March/April 1996. I flew quite frequently to Europe in the 1990s and Lufthansa was often my airline of choice because of the good connections to Rome. I always made the trip more enjoyable by listening to Lufthansa’s excellent classical music channel. And it was on that particular trip to Dublin that I heard this particular recording for the first time, and listened to the whole opera.

With some free time in Dublin, I took the opportunity of walking around the city center, and came across a record store on Grafton Street, where this recording of Orfeo ed Euridice was in stock. I also bought Mark Knopfler’s Golden Heart that had just been released. It’s remained a favorite of mine ever since.

So what was I doing in Dublin? There’s no obvious rice connection.

Well, I had been invited to interview for the Chair of Botany (1711) at Trinity College Dublin (TCD), and on a grey early Spring morning, I found myself among six candidates including one internal candidate who was subsequently appointed to the Chair (one of the oldest professorships at TCD). I’d certainly traveled furthest by a long chalk.

So that explains two points of the trinity: music and science. So what about film?

Educating Rita was released in 1983, starring Michael Caine and Julie Walters and written by Willy Russell based on his stage play. Although the storyline takes place at the Open University in England, several scenes were filmed on the Trinity College campus.

And one intimate scene between Caine and Walters was filmed in the lecture theater in the Botany Department. Or so the story goes. I’ve heard that but not (yet) been able to verify. And it was in that very same lecture theater that I presented my candidacy seminar.

Botany building at TCD

It’s interesting to note that botany is still offered today at TCD. Not ‘plant sciences’ or ‘plant biology’. Good old ‘botany’! It’s thriving and there are more staff than when I visited. It’s not a department as such but an important discipline in the School of Natural Sciences.

The Chair of Botany (1711) is now occupied by Professor Jennifer Mc Elwain, whose research focuses on the development and use of palaeobotanical methods (proxies) that use fossil plants to reconstruct the evolution of Earth’s atmospheric composition and climate on multimillion year timescales.

When I lectured in plant biology at The University of Birmingham between 1981 and 1991 a tutee of mine, Trevor Hodkinson, took a joint degree in biological sciences and geography. I don’t remember the dates, but he stayed on to complete his PhD supervised by one of my colleagues. He joined TCD shortly after my visit there, and has been Professor of Botany since 2016 focussing on molecular systematics, genetic resource characterisation, and endophyte biology.


So, as we sat down to a dinner of roast pork, accompanied by a delicious Reserve de Pierre Rosé 2023 from the Côtes du Rhône by winemaker Pierre Latard, all these memories came flooding back. And though, back in 1996, I was momentarily disappointed at the TCD outcome, I have no regrets about how my career turned out.


 

Christmas at Cragside

We first visited the National Trust’s Cragside (near Rothbury in central Northumberland)—home of Victorian engineer, industrialist, inventor and entrepreneur William Armstrong, 1st Baron Armstrong (right)—in 2011, not long after we became members of the National Trust. Since we moved to the northeast in October 2020, we have been back there several times, most recently yesterday to see how the house had been decorated for the Christmas season.

Each December over the past 13 years, we have visited one or more National Trust properties to enjoy the seasonal decorations that have become part of the Trust’s calendar. Some very traditional, others a little more quirky, whimsical even, and perhaps not to everyone’s taste. I’m surprised some of the Christmas displays haven’t already compelled advocates of Restore Trust [1] to reach for their pens and fire off a letter of complaint to The Telegraph!

But we enjoyed our visit to Cragside, and the staff had gone to great lengths to open up several rooms, and brought the Spirits of the Forest inside.

“Imagine that the Armstrongs’ servants have decked the halls and trimmed the trees for their jolly festivities, but as day becomes night, the House falls under an enchanted spell.  The carefully cultivated landscape has gone wild and is reclaiming the House. Rooms are bursting with trees, woodland animals are roaming the halls, foliage is growing down the furniture and the enormous marble fireplace in the Drawing Room is being transformed into a cave by the crag” (Source: National Trust website).

Inside the house, National Trust staff and volunteers (especially Yvonne and Sandy on the door) gave everyone a warm welcome.

On the ground floor, we followed a route through the butler’s pantry (champagne on ice), the kitchen (where someone had been busy making mince pies), into the dining room (where a tree had reclaimed the dining table), and the library where Armstrong peered down from the wall at the havoc that the Spirits had inflicted on his domain. I wonder what he would have made of it all? I hope he would have been impressed by the lengths the staff and volunteers had gone to bringing Christmas cheer inside.

There’s one feature in the dining room that has always attracted my attention. Either side of the fireplace are two pre-Raphaelite stained glass windows.

Moving to the first floor, the main staircase was sheathed in foliage and lights, but that didn’t prepare for the spectacle to come in the Gallery and Drawing Room.

The Gallery (normally lined with marble busts and cases of stuffed birds and other natural history elements) had become a forest, with Christmas trees on both sides, and the occasional owl making an appearance. The busts had been left in place to peer through the foliage.

Cragside’s Drawing Room is impressive. It must be 30 m long at least, 15 wide, and heaven knows how high, with a glass roof allowing diffuse light to enter. The walls are lined with portraits of all sizes. But this Christmas it had become a cave, with a stream flowing through. There was even an otter peaking out from under the stream’s bank.

On 28 November, 2000 lights on a 42m giant redwood close to the house were switched 0n. Although the lights were on during the day, they can hardly be seen in this image on the right.

After enjoying the house, and the weather continuing bright and calm, we headed across the estate on foot to the formal garden. And afterwards, we took the Carriage Ride, stopping for a ‘picnic lunch’ (in the car) overlooking Nelly’s Moss Lakes (which Armstrong built to provide a head of water for the hydroelectricity he installed in the house).

Then, by about 14:45 we completed the Carriage Ride circuit, and headed back home, about 30 miles south.

This is the link to more photos in an online album.


[1] Restore Trust is a British political advocacy group which seeks to change policies of the National Trust. The group has aimed to bring resolutions to the National Trust AGM in an effort to restore the [National] Trust to what it sees as “its core purpose”, and has criticised the National Trust’s work on rewilding and social inclusion which Restore Trust’s organizers consider to be “woke” (from Wikipedia).

North, south, east, and west across the USA (and Canada)

Steph and I first travelled to/through the USA in May 1975, when we returned to the UK for several months so I could complete the residency requirements for my PhD at the University of Birmingham, and submit my thesis. We were working in Lima, Peru at the time, and had travelled home to the UK via Costa Rica and Mexico, before flying to New York (KJFK) on our first wide-bodied flight (it was an L-1011 or Tristar of Eastern Airlines) and then taking a British Airways 747 (our first flight on that iconic plane) to Manchester (EGCC).

Once we moved to Costa Rica in April 1976, I travelled quite often through Miami (KMIA) en route to various destinations in the Caribbean, sometimes spending a night in Miami to do some shopping before catching a flight back to San José (MROC). Each year, between 1978 and 1980, we flew through Miami when taking our home leave back in the UK.

During the 1980s (when I was working at the University of Birmingham) I made only one trip to the USA (as far as I can remember), to attend a botanical conference in St Louis, MO in 1982. It wasn’t until 1991, when I took a position at the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in the Philippines, that I began to travel regularly to the USA to attend meetings or conferences of one sort or another. Then, in 1978, our elder daughter Hannah transferred from her degree course in the UK to Macalester College in St Paul, MN. Whenever I travelled to the USA I scheduled a weekend in Minnesota because Northwest Airlines (now subsumed into Delta Airlines) had its hub in Minneapolis-St Paul (KMSP), and there were daily flights between Manila (RPLL) and KMSP in both directions, with a transit either in Tokyo Narita (RJAA) or Kansai Osaka (RJBB).

Since retiring in 2010, Steph and I have returned to the USA each year, with the exception of the pandemic years 2020 and 2021, and 2022 when Hannah and her family visited us here in the UK.

We have travelled extensively, making some epic road trips across the country, visiting several interesting cities, and taking in as many of the attractions as possible along the way. Together we have visited 38 states, and my travels have taken me to two more: Texas, Arkansas, and DC. It’s actually easier to list the states neither of us has visited: Hawaii, Alaska, Idaho, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, North Dakota, Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama.

I guess we have seen more of the USA than the vast majority of actual citizens.

In this next map I have marked the places we have visited, stayed at, and the attractions we have enjoyed over the years. Yellow dots are the airports I have flown through. Green are the places where we have stayed, and dark red are the attractions (including some cities) we have enjoyed. I also included the various places visited in Canada during a couple of trips there in 1979 and 2002.

Completing this map with links, photos and descriptions is a work in progress. Do keep coming back for updates.

What a fascinating country. There is so much to see and do. And, in the main, we have found Americans to be friendly, polite, and with a generosity of spirit.

But, as we approach the 2024 Presidential Election in the USA next week, I do worry for the future. Why? Because if Donald Trump does not win I can’t see him accepting the result, and therefore expect him to stir up his MAGA base to violence once again, just as he did on 6 January 2021. And, heaven forefend, should he win (while most probably losing the national popular vote by a landslide) he is expected to immediately adopt Project 2025 as the blueprint for his administration. The country will be sliding down a very slippery slope towards authoritarianism, civil conflict even.

Would I want to travel around the USA if the country is headed in that direction? It would certainly be a less attractive proposition.


 

 

In the footsteps of the Ancestral Puebloans

Over the past 14 years, Steph and I have made several awesome road trips across the USA, covering 36 states and visiting many national parks and national monuments. I can’t decide which trip I enjoyed most, but the two we made to the American Southwest stand out for the amazing desert landscapes and the fascinating archaeology there.

The ‘three-sisters’ of indigenous American agriculture.

The Ancestral Puebloans (formerly known as the Anasazi) inhabited the southwest in a region known as the Four Corners (where Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah meet) from about 500 CE and were known for their pit houses, and cliff dwellings constructed in alcoves along the walls of sandstone canyons.

Where did these people come from, who taught them subsistence agriculture (based on the ‘three sisters‘ polyculture of corn, beans, and squashes), and why did they abandon many of their settlements around 1300 CE?

Since corn (Zea mays) was domesticated in southern Mexico, thousands of years earlier, the Ancestral Puebloans must have had links with other peoples to the south with whom they traded.

I’m still trying to understand North American indigenous cultures, so I’m not going to make any attempt here to explain the Ancestral Puebloans as such. But I have included links where you can find more information.


In 2011, we spent about 10 days exploring Arizona and New Mexico. This past May, over seven days, we drove from Las Vegas, NV to Denver, CO across Utah.

We first came across Ancestral Pueblo settlements on that 2011 trip when, heading north from Flagstaff, AZ to the Grand Canyon, we took a diversion east and visited Wupatki National Monument, and three different sites there: Wukoki Pueblo, Wupatki Pueblo, and Box Canyon. It was a bustling community at its zenith in the 12th century CE, but had been largely abandoned by the first quarter of the 13th.

Then it was on to Canyon de Chelly National Monument in northeast Arizona. We viewed three settlements from the rim of the canyon. Mummy Cave, high on the canyon wall (upper image below), was occupied for a thousand years from about 300 CE, so I have read. Antelope House (middle image), and another, White House ruin (lower image, built in the early 11th century CE), nearer the canyon floor, and the only ruin accessible (from the canyon rim) to tourists on foot. Other visits to the canyon have to be organized with local Navajo tour guides.

On that same trip we drove into New Mexico, passing nearby but not visiting two World Heritage sites: Chaco Culture National Historical Park, a major center of Ancestral Puebloan culture dating between 850 and 1250 CE, and Taos Pueblo, home to Native Americans for over a thousand years. Near Los Alamos, we did visit Bandelier National Monument, a site dated to a later Ancestral Puebloan era, from around 1150 CE to 1600 CE, with rooms carved into the cliff face.


This year, however, Mesa Verde National Park in southwest Colorado (some 35 miles west of Durango) was very much on our itinerary. Ancestral Puebloan remains there span the whole 750 year occupation from about 550 CE up until c. 1300 CE.

The route I’d planned south to Durango took us from Grand Junction in northwest Colorado over the Million Dollar Highway, a 25 mile section of US 550 between Ouray and Silverton in the San Juan Mountains. I had expected the 165 mile drive to take all day, and had planned accordingly, since the Million Dollar Highway is claimed to be one of the most challenging—and dangerous—highways in the USA. In many places there are no guard rails. You can view the route in a couple of videos here. Just scroll down to ‘Day 5’.

However, it took only half a day, so we decided to head to Mesa Verde that same afternoon rather than waiting for the next morning. I guess we must have arrived at the Visitor Center by about 3 pm. Like our visit to Bryce Canyon a few days earlier, arriving mid-afternoon was really quite fortuitous. Many visitors were already leaving and none of the parking lots at the various sites along the park drive was busy, making for a tranquil appreciation of all the park had to offer. And, as an added bonus, visiting Mesa Verde that afternoon freed up time the next day for the 260 mile drive east to Cañon City.

From the Visitor Center it’s a 23 mile drive to the southernmost point on the Mesa Top Loop where some of the most complete ruins are located. The park has 5000 known archaeological sites, and over 600 cliff dwellings. Although famous for its cliff dwellings, these were occupied for a short period, not long before the people abandoned Mesa Verde for reasons not fully understood, and moved south. Click on the map below to open an enlarged version.

The park road climbs steeply on to the mesa top, which lies around 7-8000 ft above sea level. So, in summer it’s blisteringly hot, and bitingly cold in winter. No wonder it was a challenge to live here.

On the way south, one of our first stops was the Montezuma Valley Overlook, from where there is an impressive view of the landscape west into Utah. Click on this image to open a larger version.

I recently came across the video below, posted by explorer and YouTuber Andrew Cross (Desert Drifter – more later). On a recent visit to southeast Utah in Montezuma Canyon, a group from The Archaeological Conservancy explored the extensive settlements there.

The first Ancestral Puebloans lived in pit houses on the mesa tops, and constructed partially underground. The earliest date from the 6th century CE.

Then, several centuries later, larger villages were established (like those we saw at Wupatki) but also the cliff dwellings comprised of multiple houses and rooms, and round, ceremonial courtyards known as kivas, and which can also be seen in the Bandelier images above.

Two of the sites on the Mesa Top Loop, the Cliff Palace and Balcony House are only accessible on a guided tour, which we didn’t take. In any case, access to both requires scrambling up ladders, which I would not have managed (I’m currently using a stick due to an on-going back problem). The Cliff Palace and several other buildings close by can be viewed from an overlook. All very impressive.

The Ancestral Puebloans gained access to the cliff dwellings through handholds in the rock face, or using ropes. Certainly their difficult accessibility must have been a key feature for defence.

So, from the original sparsely settled villages of pit houses, to the more densely populated cliff dwellings, it’s estimated that Mesa Verde was once home to thousands of families. But by about 1300 CE they had upped sticks and moved on. Why? No-one really knows but it could have been due to drought affecting agricultural productivity. Or maybe conflicts had broken out, thus the reasons for more defensive villages in the cliff dwellings. The Ancestral Puebloans certainly left a strong legacy behind.


Earlier I mentioned Andrew Cross (right) and his Desert Drifter channel. It’s certainly worth a watch. His videos document his backpacking trips into canyon country looking for signs of the Ancestral Puebloans (and other indigenous peoples) that he has discovered through careful study of Google Earth images.

And he has come across some remarkable settlements, often sufficient to support just one or two families at most, who left behind evidence of their occupancy 1000 years ago in the form of pottery shards (typically black stripes on a white background), arrow heads, various tools for grinding corn, and ancient corn cobs as well. And the Puebloans also left behind incredible pictographs (paintings) and petroglyphs (etched into the rock surface) of fantastical humans, animals, and symbols. Hand prints are common everywhere.


The day after visiting Mesa Verde, we set off early from Durango to cross the mountains east of Pagosa Springs, before heading northeast to Cañon City.

About 16 miles short of Pagosa Springs we saw a road sign to Chimney Rock National Monument, which was just under 4 miles south from the main highway, US 160. I hadn’t noticed this when planning the trip, but as we now had extra time, we decided to explore. We were not disappointed.

Chimney Rock, an outlier from the Chaco Canyon Regional system, ‘. . . covers seven square miles and preserves 200 ancient homes and ceremonial buildings, some of which have been excavated for viewing and exploration: a Great Kiva, a Pit House, a Multi-Family Dwelling, and a Chacoan-style Great House Pueblo. Chimney Rock is the highest in elevation of all the Chacoan sites, at about 7,000 feet above sea level.’

From the Visitor Center, it’s a a 2½ mile drive, on a gravel road, to a parking lot just below the summit of the mesa, and the ruins there. From the parking lot, it’s a steady climb over about a quarter of mile to reach the summit, at 7620 feet.

The panorama there takes in the Rockies to the east, and southwest into New Mexico towards Chaco Canyon, about 90 miles away.

You can view my Chimney Rock photo album here.


Our visits to these extraordinary sites have, for me, generated more questions than answers. I need to spend some time researching human expansion across North America over the millennia. And the story of how agriculture developed in this region of the Four Corners continues to fascinate me.

Then there was rice . . .

For 20 years before I joined the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in the Philippines in July 1991, as head of the Genetic Resources Center (GRC), my career in international agricultural research at the International Potato Center (CIP, 1973-1981) in Peru and academia (at The University of Birmingham, 1981-1991) focused on potatoes and legume species. Although I remained at IRRI until 2010 (when I retired), I was head of GRC for just a decade, after which I moved to a senior management position.

I’d travelled in Asia only twice before. And one of those trips had been to IRRI in January 1991 for interview. The other, in 1985, was to attend a genetic resources conference in Jakarta, Indonesia.

IRRI research center in Los Baños. GRC is housed in the Brady Building on the extreme right. Other buildings have been added since the photo was taken.

So my experience in Asia was limited to say the least, and non-existent for rice. Joining IRRI was certainly a challenge. Why?

In the experiment field at IRRI research center in 2010, with Mt Makiling in the background. I bought that sombrero in Peru in January 1973, just a few days after I arrived there to begin my career in international agricultural research at CIP. The hat is still going strong 50+ years later – not so sure about the wearer.

At IRRI, I had to learn about rice from scratch, manage one of the world’s most important genebanks (I’d never managed a genebank before), and supervise a group of more than 70 professional and support staff. Furthermore, I had to learn (quickly) to empathise with a very different culture, specifically Filipino but Asian more broadly (very different from that I’d experienced in Latin America). It wasn’t so straightforward, but I was up for the challenge.


In 1991, Klaus Lampe (right, who passed away earlier this year) was IRRI’s Director General, who was appointed in 1988 to revive the institute’s status in the world of international agricultural research. That meant not only refurbishment of IRRI’s laboratories and offices at its Los Baños campus headquarters, but also involved a significant turnover of staff, replacing many (who had been with IRRI for a decade or more, even since the 1960s) with a cohort of younger staff who could bring new ideas,  enthusiasm, and skills to IRRI’s research for development agenda. I was part of that recruitment cohort.

I first heard about the GRC position at IRRI in September 1990. It was advertised as a new department, bringing together the rice genebank (then known as the International Rice Germplasm Center, later renamed the International Rice Genebank) and INGER, a global network for testing rice varieties and breeding lines. While the head would have overall management responsibility for GRC, his/her day-to-day duties would focus on the genebank, while another staff member was the INGER leader.

During my interviews at IRRI over three days I indicated I would only be interested in the position if there was a specific research component and funding to support it, something that had not been envisaged when GRC was established and the position advertised.

I must have been persuasive because I was offered the position, and Lampe approved a research role for GRC. Specifically for research aimed at managing and using the important rice germplasm collection of indigenous varieties, improved lines, genetic stocks, and wild species that, in 1991, totalled around 75,000 seed samples or accessions.

But in July 1991, research per se was not an immediate priority. There were other, more pressing issues to be attended to first—and their outcome equally as important as our many research publications.

I had to quickly familiarise myself with IRRI’s research and management culture as one of the world’s leading agricultural research centers (and oldest among the research centers supported through the Consultative Group on International Agricultural Research, or CGIAR), build a GRC culture and, specifically, work out just how the genebank could be better managed and the roles of each of the staff.

My predecessor (as head of the International Rice Germplasm Center) was eminent rice geneticist and upland rice breeder, Dr TT Chang. ‘TT’, as he was known, ran the genebank (I quickly discovered) along the lines: ‘Do as I say’, and staff had little or no individual responsibility or leeway to manage their work more effectively.

It didn’t take me long to realise that changes could and should be made to increase efficiency, and eliminate duplication of effort among staff. I needed to assign specific responsibilities (and accountability) to each staff member for seed conservation, germplasm multiplication and rejuvenation, for data management, among others, and also identify individuals who might take on a specific research role.

After six months of asking lots of questions and discussing the genebank operations, I had a genebank strategy and plan ready. And because my staff had been involved in developing the plan, its implementation was fairly plain-sailing from then on.

I’m not going to detail here the sorts of changes that were made. Almost none of the genebank operations in the field or in storage escaped our attention. Job descriptions were rewritten, and positions upgraded to reflect new responsibilities.

Inside the International Rice Genebank, with Pola de Guzman who became the genebank manager.

The genebank was fortunate to be included in the institute’s refurbishment plan, so we upgraded many of its facilities and installed a dedicated seed drying room, a significant addition.

In this post I summarised what it entails to run a genebank for rice. And check out this video I made  about the genebank in 2015 on a return visit to IRRI. Many of the staff who feature in the video have themselves now retired and some have sadly died.

Among the tasks we undertook was revision of the data management system, one of the most important components of genebank operations. For a number of reasons the data system I inherited was not really fit for purpose. It took two years to complete all the changes!

And for the sake of my successor(s), we wrote a genebank operations manual, the first of its kind among the CGIAR genebanks. Publishing the manual was not the only ‘first’ that IRRI achieved.

The fruits of our endeavours were recognised around 1994 when the CGIAR launched an external review of the center genebanks. The reviewers concluded that IRRI’s genebank was ‘a model for others to emulate‘. Our hard work had paid off. But we weren’t complacent, striving to make more improvements which were taken further by my immediate successor, Dr Ruaraidh Sackville Hamilton.


The management and status of the International Rice Genebank
Over the decade I was in charge of IRRI’s genebank, we published several papers and book chapters describing the rice collection and its management (and in the wider CGIAR context), how much it cost to run, who had requested germplasm and for what purpose, using biotechnology for conservation, as well as issues related to the management of intellectual property.

During the mid-1990s, and post-Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD) there was concern internationally about how germplasm was being conserved in the 11 CGIAR center genebanks.

The CGIAR’s System-wide Genetic Resources Program (SGRP, launched in 1994 and which I chaired for several years, seen in the image below meeting in Rome had members from all CGIAR centers) responded to these concerns by publishing Biodiversity in Trust in 1997.

The chapters described the status and management of each of the crops held in trust in the genebanks. The rice chapter had authors from IRRI, Africa Rice (in Ivory Coast), IITA (in Nigeria), and CIAT (in Colombia), all of which had rice collections, with that at IRRI the largest and most comprehensive.

In the 1990s, there was considerable interest in developing ‘core collections’ (first proposed by genetic resources pioneer, Sir Otto Frankel (right, one of the pioneers of the plant genetic resources conservation movement launched in the 1960s, who I had the pleasure of meeting at that 1985 conference in Jakarta), a subset of the whole collection that encompassed all the diversity—a concept that has been (mis)interpreted in a multiplicity of ways ever since. I’ve never been much of an advocate for core collections, simply because we had so much to achieve to ensure the safety of the whole collection rather concentrate our efforts on a subset. Nevertheless, my colleague Duncan Vaughan (who left IRRI in 1993 to join a research institute in Tsukuba, Japan) and I speculated how a core collection for rice might be assembled.

We published an update in 1999, after we’d had several years of molecular analysis experience.

The IRRI collection has been widely used in plant breeding, and rice research in general. It’s not a museum collection, and access to the germplasm is one justification for its continued financial support.

The long-term security of any genebank collection is dependent upon reliability of long-term funding. Fortunately the Crop Trust now provides a significant level of security to genebanks in perpetuity through its Endowment Fund.

But what does it cost to run a genebank like IRRI’s? In the late 1990s, we didn’t really have a good handle on this. With the help of agricultural economists Bonwoo Koo, Philip Pardey, and Brian Wright, several of the CGIAR genebanks made a stab at a costing exercise – subsequently revised since methodologies have been improved. Here is the original IRRI costing study, published in 2004.

During our research on the breeding relationships of wild and cultivated rices, we used in vitro culture of embryos (on nutrient medium), and over the years adopted various molecular approaches (see below) to study the diversity of the rice collection. Some of these also had implications for intellectual property management, and I addressed some of these issues in this chapter in 1999.

In a later section of this post I describe in more detail how we (with colleagues in the UK) adopted and developed molecular approaches to manage the collection (and study diversity). But here are two general descriptions of what we did.

Post-CBD, and with the coming into force of the International Treaty on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture, I (together with an FAO consultant Robert Lettington) was asked to provide FAO with an analysis of some of the current developments affecting access to germplasm, including the effects of the development of access legislation under the Convention on Biological Diversity (CBD), legislation on intellectual property rights (IPRs), and other relevant national legislation.


Now let me turn to GRC research per se, which focused on two main areas:

  • managing the germplasm collection; and
  • understanding the diversity of rice accessions in the collection.

From the outset it was clear to me that we would need external collaborators simply because we did not have the resources (human, laboratory, or financial) to carry out everything by ourselves. And in the account below, I’ll explain how and with whom we developed such collaboration.

Germplasm conservation
The top priority (or should be) for any genebank manager is to ensure that conserved germplasm is safe and will retain its viability for decades.

Since the IRRI collection comprised rice varieties and wild species from across the world, I was concerned that we had insufficient information how to improve the multiplication of diverse seed samples in one location, namely Los Baños (14°N). While there was quite a body of literature about seed multiplication, drying, and storage from a range of other species, not so much was known then about rice.

So I turned to my good friend at the University of Reading, Professor Richard Ellis (right), a leading expert in seed conservation, and together we successfully applied for one of the UK Overseas Development Administration’s (ODA, later to become the Department for International Development or DfID) ‘Holdback’ grants. This was a scheme in which the ODA set aside a small portion of its overseas aid budget to the CGIAR centers to fund collaborative work between British institutions and centers, but with the bulk of the funds spent in the UK.

Our project focused on how the seed production environment and time of harvest affected seed longevity in storage, leading to a couple of publications that guided our practices in the genebank.

The next step was to expand the research in Los Baños itself looking at more rice varieties in a real rice-growing environment.

I recruited Dr N Kameswara Rao (right) from India (who had completed his PhD at Reading) to join GRC on a postdoctoral position for three years.

Kameswara Rao and I published these four papers:

As a result of this project, we made several important changes to germplasm multiplication and rejuvenation, and post-harvest drying and management was enhanced, as I mentioned earlier, with the addition of a dedicated seed drying room (with a capacity of at least 2 tonnes, that allowed seeds to dry slowly) to the genebank.

Seed germination of wild rice species had always been somewhat hit-and-miss, so my staff set up a series of experiments to improve the germination rate, leading to the adoption of different protocols.

Molecular markers – collaboration with the University of Birmingham and the John Innes Centre
Even before I left the university to join IRRI, I had discussed with my colleagues Brian Ford-Lloyd and John Newbury [1] how we might continue to collaborate. Then, like I had with Richard Ellis at Reading, we successfully applied for a UK ‘Holdback’ grant (R5059) jointly with John Innes Centre (JIC, with the late Professor Mike Gale, FRS) in Norwich, to study how molecular markers could be used to reveal the nature of diversity in the germplasm collection and help in its management. Parminder Virk [2], a quantitative geneticist, joined the project in Birmingham, and added his considerable statistical analysis skills to the research. Dr Glenn Bryan [3] was the lead scientist at JIC.

But not without a little controversy at IRRI. Why should that have been? Well, some of my IRRI colleagues argued that the funds should come directly to the institute since there was a laboratory already established to use molecular markers (mainly Restriction Fragment Length Polymorphism markers or RFLPs), even though that lab was operating at almost full capacity.

They just couldn’t accept that ‘Holdback Funds’ would never be awarded directly to a center, even though we could allocate some of our expenses in the research to the project. In any case, it was clear to me that we had neither the capacity in house, nor did we have the trained personnel in GRC. With that in mind, I was able eventually to send one of my staff, Amita ‘Amy’ Juliano (who sadly passed away around 2004) for several weeks training (on a travel grant from the British Council) in the Birmingham lab, and on her return she set up her own lab in GRC.

L-R: John Newbury, Faye Hughes (lab technician), Parminder Virk (postdoc), visitor, Amy Juliano (IRRI), visitor, me, Brian Ford-Lloyd in the lab at Birmingham.

Birmingham had responsibility for the molecular screening (and development of techniques and methodologies), using PCR-based markers like Random Amplification of Polymorphic DNA or RAPD markers. What we at IRRI contributed was expertise to phenotype rice varieties in the field.

Compared to what molecular markers are available for research today (and more than a decade before the rice genome was sequenced in 2002), and the developments in genome sequencing that have taken place, our initial focus on RAPD markers was just the beginning of an innovative (pioneering even) molecular study of any germplasm collection. And has led to some molecular firsts.

We showed that RAPD markers were useful for expanding our knowledge of diversity beyond the purely morphological or isozyme data then available.

In a particularly significant development we demonstrated how RAPD markers could be used to predict the behaviour of rice varieties in the field (combining excellent molecular analysis with accurate phenotyping). This was one of the first (if not the first) examples of what came to be known as ‘association genetics’, dismissed at the time by many (including Mike Gale) but now widely verified in other species.

Our colleagues at the JIC also developed work on Amplified Fragment Length Polymorphism or AFLP markers to study rice germplasm. A young Chinese scientist, Zhu Jiahui, joined the project and eventually was awarded his PhD for the research.

A couple of PhD students at Birmingham used molecular markers to study material from the collection.

After several years of study we developed a deep appreciation of how molecular markers really did open a window on the diversity of the germplasm collection.

Biosystematics and pre-breeding
Wild species have been used to improve rice varieties, and the genebank collection holds many accessions of the 20 or so wild Oryza species. However, there had been little systematic study in terms of their taxonomy or their breeding relationships with the cultivated species. We decided to rectify that situation and launched a program to study the variation in and relationships of the wild and cultivated rices, Oryza sativa and Oryza glaberrima.

In 1994 we recruited Chinese cytogeneticist Dr Lu Bao-Rong (right, now at Fudan University in Shanghai) to lead this biosystematics initiative and to continue the collecting of wild species of his predecessor, Dr Duncan Vaughan. The two Filipino support staff were Amy Juliano and Maria Elizabeth ‘Yvette’ Naredo.

Under our supervision, Amy and Yvette carried out some important work on the AA genome rices (the two cultivated species and their closest wild relatives), establishing crossing and embryo rescue protocols.

In all, the biosystematics research led to these papers:

Yvette completed her MS degree at the University of the Philippines-Los Baños, co-supervised by me and a faculty member from the university, for a study on two distantly related species, Oryza ridleyi and Oryza longiglumis. Some years later she went on to complete her PhD as well.


In 1994, I applied to the Swiss government for funding to:

  • ‘complete’ the collection of rice varieties (and some wild species) throughout Asia, and wild rices in several African countries, and Costa Rica and Brazil in South America;
  • train personnel in national programs the principles and practices of rice germplasm conservation and use (including data management); and
  • evaluate the role for on-farm management of rice varieties as a component of genetic conservation.

We received a grant of USD3.286 million, and the project ran until 2000. I’ve written extensively about the project in this blog post. There you will find links to original project reports – and lots more.

Collecting rice germplasm
But in terms of collecting, one of my former MSc students at the University of Birmingham, Dr Dan Kiambi (a Kenyan national) coordinated collecting efforts in Africa.

In Asia, few collections of rice germplasm had been made in Laos, due to the conflict that had blighted that country over many years. In fact it’s overall capacity for agricultural R&D was quite limited. At the end of the 1980s, and supported with Swiss funding, IRRI opened a country program office in Vientiane (the capital city), headed by the late Dr John Schiller (right), an Australian agronomist who became a good friend.

With funding from the rice biodiversity project, I hired a project scientist based in Vientiane who would work with the Lao national program to collect rice varieties throughout the country (as well as assisting collecting elsewhere if time permitted).

Dr Seepana Appa Rao (right, a germplasm scientist) came to us from a sister center, ICRISAT, in Hyderabad, India and he spent five years in Laos, assembling a comprehensive collection of 13,000 Lao rice samples which were duplicated in the International Rice Genebank. I wrote about this special aspect of the rice biodiversity project here.

Appa was an enthusiastic writer and here are two papers about the collections he made.

But Appa didn’t just collect rice varieties and leave it at that. With his Lao colleagues he studied the germplasm, leading to several interesting papers and book chapters.

The following chapters were all published in the same book.

On-farm management of rice genetic resources
During the 1990s there was a concerted effort among some activist NGOs and the like to downplay the important (and safe) role of ex situ conservation in genebanks, instead promoting an in situ on-farm management (conservation) approach that should be adopted. Whereas there was a considerable body of scientific literature to support the efficacy of ex situ conservation, on-farm management seemed to almost be an ideology with little scientific basis to support its long-term consequences in terms of genetic conservation.

I felt we needed to tackle this situation head on, so I hired a population geneticist, Dr Jean-Louis Pham (on secondment from IRD in France) and a Mexican human ecologist, Dr Mauricio Bellon who together would look into the genetic and societal implications of on-farm management. After Mauricio moved to another institute after a couple of years, we recruited Dr Steve Morin, a social anthropologist from Nebraska.

L-R: Jean-Louis Pham, Mauricio Bellon, and Steve Morin


All in all, quite a productive decade, upgrading the genebank and its collection, and establishing excellent collaborations with scientists in the UK and elsewhere, without whom we could never have achieved so much.

My Filipino staff grew in their roles, and the genebank went from strength to strength. I retired just as IRRI reached its Golden Jubilee.

Although I moved into a program management role after leaving GRC, I retained a keen interest in what my former colleagues were undertaking. And to this day, they keep me posted from time-to-time.


Besides the papers and chapters that I have included above, we presented these papers and posters at conferences. No digital copies are available.

1993
Cabanilla, V.R., M.T. Jackson & T.R. Hargrove, 1993. Tracing the ancestry of rice varieties. Poster presented at the 17th International Congress of Genetics, Birmingham, U.K., August 15-21, 1993. Volume of abstracts, 112-113.

Hunt, E.D., M.T. Jackson, M. Oliva & A. Alcantara, 1993. Employing geographical information systems (GIS) for conserving and using rice germplasm. Poster presented at the 17th International Congress of Genetics, Birmingham, U.K., August 15-21, 1993. Volume of abstracts, 117.

Jackson, M.T., 1993. Biotechnology and the conservation and use of plant genetic resources. Invited paper presented at the Workshop on Biotechnology in Developing Countries, held at the 17th International Congress of Genetics, Birmingham, U.K., August 15-21, 1993.

Jackson, M.T., G.C. Loresto & A.P. Alcantara, 1993. The International Rice Germplasm Center at IRRI. In: The Egyptian Society of Plant Breeding (1993). Crop Genetic Resources in Egypt: Present Status and Future Prospects. Papers of an ESPB Workshop, Giza, Egypt, March 2-3, 1992.

Newbury, H.J., P. Virk, M.T. Jackson, G. Bryan, M. Gale & B.V. Ford-Lloyd, 1993. Molecular markers and the analysis of diversity in rice. Poster presented at the 17th International Congress of Genetics, Birmingham, U.K., August 15-21, 1993. Volume of abstracts, 121-122.

1994
Jackson, M.T., 1994. Care for and use of biodiversity in rice. Invited paper presented at the Symposium on Food Security in Asia, held at the Royal Society, London, November 1, 1994.

Parsons, B.J., B.V. Ford-Lloyd, H.J. Newbury & M.T. Jackson, 1994. Use of PCR-based markers to assess genetic diversity in rice landraces from Bhutan and Bangladesh. Poster presented at the Annual Meeting of the British Ecological Society, held at The University of Birmingham, December 1994.

Virk, P., B.V. Ford-Lloyd, M.T. Jackson & H.J. Newbury, 1994. The use of RAPD analysis for assessing diversity within rice germplasm. Paper presented at the Annual Meeting of the British Ecological Society, held at The University of Birmingham, December 1994.

1995
Dao The Tuan, Nguyen Dang Khoi, Luu Ngoc Trinh, Nguyen Phung Ha, Nguyen Vu Trong, D.A. Vaughan & M.T. Jackson, 1995. INSA-IRRI collaboration on wild rice collection in Vietnam. In: G.L. Denning & Vo-Tong Xuan (eds.), Vietnam and IRRI: A partnership in rice research. International Rice Research Institute, Los Baños, Philippines, and Ministry of Agriculture and Food Industry, Hanoi, Vietnam, pp. 85-88.

Jackson, M.T., 1995. The international crop germplasm collections: seeds in the bank! Invited paper presented at the meeting Economic and Policy Research for Genetic Resources Conservation and Use: a Technical Consultation, held at IFPRI, Washington, D.C., June 21-22, 1995

Jackson, M.T., A. Alcantara, E. Guevarra, M. Oliva, M. van den Berg, S. Erguiza, R. Gallego & M. Estor, 1995. Documentation and data management for rice genetic resources at IRRI. Paper presented at the Planning Meeting for the System-wide Information Network for Genetic Resources (SINGER), held at CIMMYT, Mexico, October 2-6, 1995.

Jackson, M.T., B.R. Lu, G.C. Loresto & F. de Guzman, 1995. The conservation of rice genetic resources at the International Rice Research Institute. Paper presented at the International Symposium on Research and Utilization of Crop Germplasm Resources held in Beijing, People’s Republic of China, June 1-3, 1995.

Kameswara Rao, N. & M.T. Jackson, 1995. Seed production strategies for conservation of rice genetic resources. Poster presented at the Fifth International Workshop on Seeds, University of Reading, September 11-15, 1995.

Lu, B.R., A. Juliano, E. Naredo & M.T. Jackson, 1995. The conservation and study of wild Oryza species at the International Rice Research Institute. Paper presented at the International Symposium on Research and Utilization of Crop Germplasm Resources held in Beijing, People’s Republic of China, June 1-3, 1995.

Pham, J.L., M.R. Bellon & M.T. Jackson, 1995. A research program on on-farm conservation of rice genetic resources. Poster presented at the Third International Rice Genetics Symposium, Manila, Philippines, October 16-20, 1995.

Reaño, R., M.T. Jackson, F. de Guzman, S. Almazan & G.C. Loresto, 1995. The multiplication and regeneration of rice germplasm at the International Rice Genebank, IRRI. Paper presented at the Discussion Meeting on Regeneration Standards, held at ICRISAT, Hyderabad, India, December 4-7, 1995, sponsored by IPGRI, ICRISAT and FAO.

1996
Appa Rao, S., C. Bounphanousay, V. Phetpaseuth, K. Kanyavong, B. Sengthong, J. M. Schiller, V. Phannourath & M.T. Jackson, 1996. Collection and classification of rice germplasm from the Lao PDR. Part 1. Southern and Central Regions – 1995. Internal report of the National Agricultural Research Center, Dept. of Agriculture and Extension, Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, Vientiane, Lao PDR, and Genetic Resources Center, International Rice Research Institute (IRRI), Los Baños, Philippines.

Jackson, M.T. & G.C. Loresto, 1996. The role of the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI) in supporting national and regional programs. Invited paper presented at the Asia-Pacific Consultation Meeting on Plant Genetic Resources, held in New Delhi, India, November 27-29, 1996.

Jackson, M.T. & R.D. Huggan, 1996. Pflanzenvielfalt als Grundlage der Welternährung. Bulletin—das magazin der Schweizerische Kreditanstalt SKA. March/April 1996, 9-10.

Jackson, M.T., 1996. Intellectual property rights—the approach of the International Rice Research Institute. Invited paper presented at the Satellite Symposium on Biotechnology and Biodiversity: Scientific and Ethical Issues, held in New Delhi, India, November 15-16, 1996.

Jackson, M.T., G.C. Loresto & F. de Guzman, 1996. Partnership for genetic conservation and use: the International Rice Genebank at the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI). Poster presented at the Beltsville Symposium XXI on Global Genetic Resources—Access, Ownership, and Intellectual Property Rights, held in Beltsville, Maryland, May 19-22, 1996.

Virk, P.S., H.J. Newbury, Y. Shen, M.T. Jackson & B.V. Ford-Lloyd, 1996. Prediction of agronomic traits in diverse germplasm of rice and beet using molecular markers. Paper presented at the Fourth International Plant Genome Conference, held in San Diego, California, January 14-18, 1996.

1997
Appa Rao, S., C. Bounphanousay, K. Kanyavong, V. Phetpaseuth, B. Sengthong, J.M. Schiller, S. Thirasack & M.T. Jackson, 1997. Collection and classification of rice germplasm from the Lao PDR. Part 2. Northern, Southern and Central Regions. Internal report of the National Agricultural Research Center, Department of Agriculture and Extension, Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, Vientiane, Lao PDR, and Genetic Resources Center, International Rice Research Institute (IRRI), Los Baños, Philippines.

1998
Appa Rao, S., C. Bounphanousay, V. Phetpaseuth, K. Kanyavong, B. Sengthong, J.M. Schiller & M.T. Jackson, 1998. Collection and Classification of Lao Rice Germplasm Part 3. Collecting Period—October 1997 to February 1998. Internal report of the National Agricultural Research Center, National Agriculture and Forestry Research Institute, Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, Vientiane, Lao PDR, and Genetic Resources Center, International Rice Research Institute (IRRI), Los Baños, Philippines.

Jackson, M.T., 1998. Intellectual property rights—the approach of the International Rice Research Institute. Invited paper at the Seminar-Workshop on Plant Patents in Asia Pacific, organized by the Asia & Pacific Seed Association (APSA), held in Manila, Philippines, September 21-22, 1998.

Jackson, M.T., 1998. Recent developments in IPR that have implications for the CGIAR. Invited paper presented at the ICLARM Science Day, International Center for Living Aquatic Resources Management, Manila, Philippines, September 30, 1998.

Jackson, M.T., 1998. The genetics of genetic conservation. Invited paper presented at the Fifth National Genetics Symposium, held at PhilRice, Nueva Ecija, Philippines, December 10-12, 1998.

Jackson, M.T., 1998. The role of the CGIAR’s System-wide Genetic Resources Programme (SGRP) in implementing the GPA. Invited paper presented at the Regional Meeting for Asia and the Pacific to facilitate and promote the implementation of the Global Plan of Action for the Conservation and Sustainable Use of Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture, held in Manila, Philippines, December 15-18, 1998.

Lu, B.R., M.E. Naredo, A.B. Juliano & M.T. Jackson, 1998. Biosystematic studies of the AA genome Oryza species (Poaceae). Poster presented at the Second International Conference on the Comparative Biology of the Monocotyledons and Third International Symposium on Grass Systematics and Evolution, Sydney, Australia, September 27-October 2, 1998.

Morin, S.R., J.L. Pham, M. Calibo, G. Abrigo, D. Erasga, M. Garcia, & M.T. Jackson, 1998. On farm conservation research: assessing rice diversity and indigenous technical knowledge. Invited paper presented at the Workshop on Participatory Plant Breeding, held in New Delhi, March 23-24, 1998.

Morin, S.R., J.L. Pham, M. Calibo, M. Garcia & M.T. Jackson, 1998. Catastrophes and genetic diversity: creating a model of interaction between genebanks and farmers. Paper presented at the FAO meeting on the Global Plan of Action on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture for the Asia-Pacific Region, held in Manila, Philippines, December 15-18, 1998.

1999
Alcantara, A.P., E.B. Guevarra & M.T. Jackson, 1999. The International Rice Genebank Collection Information System. Poster presented at the annual meeting of the Crop Science Society of America, Salt Lake City, October 31-November 4, 1999.

Appa Rao, S., C. Bounphanousay, K. Kanyavong, B. Sengthong, J.M. Schiller & M.T. Jackson, 1999. Collection and classification of Lao rice germplasm, Part 4. Collection Period: September to December 1998. Internal report of the National Agricultural Research Center, National Agriculture and Forestry Research Institute, Ministry of Agriculture and Forestry, Vientiane, Lao PDR, and Genetic Resources Center, International Rice Research Institute (IRRI), Los Baños, Philippines.

Appa Rao, S., C. Bounphanouxay, J.M. Schiller & M.T. Jackson, 1999. Collecting Rice Genetic Resources in the Lao PDR. Poster presented at the annual meeting of the Crop Science Society of America, Salt Lake City, October 31-November 4, 1999.

Jackson, M.T., E.L. Javier & C.G. McLaren, 1999. Rice genetic resources for food security. Invited paper at the IRRI Symposium, held at the annual meeting of the Crop Science Society of America, Salt Lake City, October 31-November 4, 1999.

Jackson, M.T., F.C. de Guzman, R.A. Reaño, M.S.R. Almazan, A.P. Alcantara & E.B. Guevarra, 1999. Managing the world’s largest collection of rice genetic resources. Poster presented at the annual meeting of the Crop Science Society of America, Salt Lake City, October 31-November 4, 1999.

2000
Jackson, M.T., B.R. Lu, M.S. Almazan, M.E. Naredo & A.B. Juliano, 2000. The wild species of rice: conservation and value for rice improvement. Poster presented at the annual meeting of the Crop Science Society of America, Minneapolis, November 5-9, 2000.

Naredo, M.E., A.B. Juliano, M.S. Almazan, B.R. Lu & M.T. Jackson, 2000. Morphological and molecular diversity of AA genome species of rice. Poster presented at the annual meeting of the Crop Science Society of America, Minneapolis, November 5-9, 2000.

Pham J.L., S.R. Morin & M.T. Jackson, 2000. Linking genebanks and participatory conservation and management. Invited paper presented at the International Symposium on The Scientific Basis of Participatory Plant Breeding and Conservation of Genetic Resources, held at Oaxtepec, Morelos, Mexico, October 9-12, 2000.

2001
Jackson, M.T., 2001. Collecting plant genetic resources: partnership or biopiracy. Invited paper presented at the annual meeting of the Crop Science Society of America, Charlotte, North Carolina, October 21-24, 2001.

Jackson, M.T., 2001. Rice: diversity and livelihood for farmers in Asia. Invited paper presented in the symposium Cultural Heritage and Biodiversity, at the annual meeting of the Crop Science Society of America, Charlotte, North Carolina, October 21-24, 2001.

2004
Jackson, M.T., 2004. Achieving the UN Millennium Development Goals begins with rice research. Invited paper presented to the Cross Party International Development Group of the Scottish Parliament, Edinburgh, Scotland, June 2, 2004.


[1] Brian was subsequently appointed Professor of Conservation Genetics at Birmingham, and Deputy Head of the School of Biosciences. He retired almost a decade ago.

John moved to the University of Worcester in 2008 as Professor of Bioscience, and head of of the Institute of Science and the Environment. He is now retired.

[2] Parminder later joined IRRI as a rice breeder, and from there, in the early 2000s, joined the CGIAR’s Harvest Plus program. I believe he has now retired.

[3] When the project ended, Glenn moved to the James Hutton Institute near Dundee, Scotland where he was lead of the potato genetics and breeding group, retiring in July 2023.


 

Between two rivers

Northumberland is renowned for its beaches, mile upon mile of sand and dunes from the north of the county to the south. And even south of the River Tyne, the Durham coast doesn’t disappoint whatsoever. I wrote about this beautiful coastline in 2023.

We regularly see grey seals at St Mary’s lighthouse, an occasional dolphin, and the bird life is wonderful, especially in winter when pink-footed geese return to the fields just behind the dunes, and waders like curlew and golden plover return to the coast after their breeding season on the moors far to the west.

A couple of days ago we visited a beach that was a first for us, just 11 miles and about 16 minutes north from home, at Cambois.

We’ve passed the exit for Cambois on the A189 many times as we headed north, never thinking about making the turn to the coast there. However, with the day forecast bright and sunny, I suggested to Steph that we could enjoy a walk along Cambois beach before heading to a DIY store in Blyth where they had a product available I’d been unable to source elsewhere.

We parked at the Buccaneers free car park at the north end of the beach. During our walk we also discovered two more free car parks further south.

It was a short walk on to the beach, turning to the north and taking us to the estuary of the River Wansbeck.

The view north towards the estuary of the River Wansbeck, and beyond to Newbiggin-by-the-Sea.

It was low tide (very low indeed), and the river just fanned out over the beach. Access to boats would only be available, if at all, at high tide. When we set out I hadn’t appreciated that the river met the sea here, and there was no way across, as it was much deeper than I first realised, and flowing quite fast.

We have walked along the Wansbeck at Wallington Hall, a National Trust property 25 miles northwest from home, and quite close to the source of the river a few miles further west.

Wallington Bridge over the River Wansbeck, designed by James Paine, and constructed in 1755.

With no alternative, we turned around and headed south towards Blyth at the south end of the beach.

That’s Blyth port on the horizon.

Blyth is quite a busy port on the River Blyth which we have walked along inland at Plessey Woods Country Park, and from Dene Park to Bedlington Country Park as far as Humford Woods Stepping Stones.

At Plessey Woods.

Along the beach there’s ample evidence of the industry that once dominated this coastline: coal mining. Just behind the beach is the huge site of the former colliery (destined for redevelopment) that closed in 1968 after operating for a little over 100 years. Covering the beach are streaks of sea coal eroded from the bluff behind the beach.

Today there’s little evidence per se of mining, the colliery winding wheel erected by the side of the road, and a hot water/effluent outfall pipe that must have once run from the colliery out to sea. And just a few lines of terraced houses that were the homes of the miners.


Along with several other villages in Northumberland, Cambois has another claim to fame, as it were, that is bound to trip up those who are not native Northumbrians.

So how do you pronounce Cambois and other place names?

Cam-bo-iss, or Cam-boice perhaps? No. It’s Ka-mes.

How about Ulgham, a village six miles northwest as the crow flies from Cambois? It’s Uffam!

Alnwick is Annick, but Alnmouth is Aln-mouth. Prudhoe is Prudha and Ovingham is Ovin-jem, likewise Bellin-jem (Bellingham).

Linguistic tongue twisters.


 

Comfortable, but definitely not numb

Pink Floyd in January 1968. L-R: Nick Mason, Syd Barrett, Roger Waters, Richard Wright, and David Gilmour (seated)

I came late to Pink Floyd. I’ll be 76 next month, and I must have been well into my 40s before I started listening to them with any regularity. That would be in the 1990s when I acquired a CD player; I’d never listened to them on vinyl.

I should add, however, that I have seen Pink Floyd live—on 26 January 1968 (and supported by T-Rex), in the Students’ Union at the University of Southampton where I began my degree in October the previous year.

During the 1970s I was working in South and Central America, and Pink Floyd were not on my musical radar. Except for one occasion, around the end of 1979. I’d travelled to Guatemala from my home in Costa Rica. My Pan Am flight from San José landed in Guatemala City in the early evening, and I headed straight to my hotel.

As I was unpacking my suitcase, I’d turned on the TV, and whatever channel I’d tuned to (my recollection was MTV, but I’ve checked and MTV wasn’t launched until 1981) was broadcasting a rather interesting video, of cartoon hammers marching in step—in the last minute of Another Brick in the Wall (Pt. 2) by Pink Floyd, which was released in November 1979, from their studio album The Wall.

And that video (and where I first viewed it) has been etched in my mind ever since.

And there is one track from The Wall which features perhaps one of the greatest guitar solos, by David Gilmore. I’m referring of course to Comfortably Numb. It’s a favorite of mine that I listen to regularly, and one of eight I would choose were I to be cast away on a desert island (Desert Island Discs).

Just yesterday, I came across a video on YouTube, by American YouTube personality, multi-instrumentalist, music producer, and educator, Rick Beato (right). Among the videos he presents, he has a series called What Makes This Song Great? And this particular video was all about Comfortably Numb.

Much as I enjoy music of all kinds I have little or no musical knowledge (even though I did play – badly – the cello for several years while in high school). So I found Beato’s analysis of Comfortably Numb absolutely fascinating (even though I didn’t understand many of the descriptions per se), but I could appreciate just what a fine musician David Gilmore is. I’m sure it will enhance your appreciation of this track.

And, at 78, still going strong having just commenced a tour to promote his fifth studio album Luck and Strange, with concerts in Rome, London, New York, and Los Angeles. Comfortably Numb is always a crowd pleaser from clips I’ve seen from the recent Rome concerts.

One track on Luck and Strange that has caught my attention (written and released by The Montgolfier Brothers in 1999) features Gilmore’s 22 year old daughter Romany.

A great interpretation.


Time traveling through the east of England

Steph and I returned recently from a very enjoyable week discovering ten National Trust (NT) and two English Heritage (EH) properties in Norfolk, Suffolk, and Cambridgeshire.

We’d booked this holiday way back in February, staying in a small cottage (The Bull Pen) on Hill Farm, Suffolk, 8 miles south of the market town of Diss (which lies just over the county boundary in Norfolk).

The Bull Pen was ideal for two people. A bit like Dr Who’s Tardis really, deceptively spacious inside.

It was a long drive south from Newcastle: 289 miles door-to-door, on the A19, A1/A1(M), A14, and A140.

But we nearly didn’t get away at all. To my dismay, I discovered that the car battery had completely drained overnight. No power whatsoever! I have no idea how that happened.

Anyway, a quick call to the company that provides our maintenance and call-out contract, and a patrol man from the AA was with us by 08:30. Diagnosing a dead battery (but no other indicative faults) he fetched a new battery from a nearby depot, and we were on the road by about 09:45. Not too much of a delay, but with my wallet lighter by £230. Unfortunately, battery issues were not covered by our maintenance contract.

That wasn’t the end of our travel woes, as I will explain at the end of this post. On the way south (and on the return) we encountered significant hold-ups along the way. We finally reached our destination just before 17:00.


We had six full days to enjoy the 12 visits we made, two per day. Much as I enjoy the stunning architecture of the houses we visit, and the interior decoration and furnishings, it’s often the small details that I like to capture in my photography: a piece of porcelain, a detail on a fireplace, wallpapers (I’m obsessed with those since many have survived for 300 years), a particularly striking portrait, elaborate plasterwork on a ceiling, and the like. And these feature in the many NT and EH images I’ve accumulated over the past decade.

In the accounts below, I’ve highlighted some of the features that caught my attention. I’ve posted links to full photo albums in a list of properties at the end of this post.

And rather take up much online space providing comprehensive historical details, I’ve made links to the NT and EH websites where the property histories are set out in much more detail (and better than I could summarise).

7 September
We headed northwest into Norfolk to the Oxburgh Estate, passing the Neolithic flint mine site of Grime’s Graves on the way where flint was first mined almost 5000 years ago.

I’ve been to Grime’s Graves twice before. The first time was in July 1969 when, as a botany and geography undergraduate at the University of Southampton, I attended a two week ecology field course based at a community college near Norwich. The Breckland, with its sandy soils over chalk, has a special floral community, the reason for our visit. But while we were botanising we also took a look at this significant Neolithic site.

Grime’s Graves is dotted with the remains of numerous flint mine pits.

Then, around 1987, while we were holidaying in Norfolk, Steph and I took our daughters Hannah (then nine) and Philippa (five) to Grime’s Graves, where they descended the 9 m into one of the pits down a ladder to observe the mining galleries. How times have changed! Today, English Heritage has recently opened a custom-built staircase access to one of the pits, and descent to the depths is carefully monitored, hard hats and all. There is also a small visitor center with an interesting exhibition about the site and its history.

It’s fascinating to learn how our ancestors mined the valuable flint, using deer antlers to carve their way through the chalk, searching for the most valuable layers of flint at the deepest levels, and opening horizontal galleries at the pit bottom.

Then it was short journey on to the Oxburgh Estate, just 13 miles, where we arrived in time to enjoy a picnic lunch.

Home of the Catholic Bedingfield family for more than five centuries, Oxburgh is a beautiful moated mansion, built by the family in 1482. But obviously refurbished in various styles over subsequent centuries.

It has survived turbulent times, from the persecution of Catholics under Henry VIII and Elizabeth I, through the 17th century civil wars. The family still live there.

Oxburgh featured in a BBC series, Hidden Treasures of the National Trust. On display is a rare mezzotint print by Jacob Christoff Le Blon made around 1721/22, showing the three children of King Charles I, based on a painting of Sir Anthony Van Dyck. Click on the image below to enlarge.

Its significance had not been realised for a very long time, hidden away as it was in a dark corner at the bottom of a staircase.

Along some of the walls in upper floor corridors are a series of painted and embossed leather wallcoverings, sourced from antique markets around Europe in the early 19th century by the 6th baronet.

On display in one of the rooms are some exquisite silk embroideries created by Mary, Queen of Scots when in captivity at Hardwick Hall between 1569 and 1584. They came to Oxburgh in the late 18th century. It’s remarkable they are still in such good condition, although obviously very carefully conserved.

8 September
This was one of the longer journey days, almost to the north coast of Norfolk, to visit Blickling Hall and Felbrigg Hall.

I had a sharp intake of breath—of admiration (marred only slightly because one of the towers was covered in scaffolding)— when I first saw Blickling Hall, at the end of a long  gravel drive, a stunning Jacobean mansion built in 1624.

There was an earlier Tudor house believed to be the birthplace of Anne Boleyn, second wife of Henry VIII (and mother of Elizabeth I).

This red brick mansion was built by Sir Henry Hobart (1560–1626) after he bought the estate in 1616. Seems like he enjoyed it for just a couple of years before his death. It passed through several generations of different families, eventually becoming the property of William Schomberg Robert Kerr, the 8th Marquess of Lothian (1832–1870), when he was just nine years old. It was during his tenure that many internal changes were made.

The 11th Marquess (right), Philip Kerr (1882-1940), Private Secretary to WW1 Prime Minister David Lloyd-George, and latterly UK Ambassador to the USA (where he died) and once a pro-Nazi Germany enthusiast, is however central to the story of the National Trust. Why? He was ‘the driving force behind the National Trust Act of 1937 and the creation of the Country Houses Scheme. This enabled the first large-scale transfer of mansion houses to the Trust in lieu of death duties, preserving some of the UK’s most beautiful buildings for everyone to enjoy, forever.

Inside the Hall there are some remarkable rooms, particularly the Long Gallery, which became a library in the 1740s.

What caught my particular attention? In the Lower Ante-Room, the walls are hung with two impressive Brussels tapestries (in the style of the paintings of David Teniers – probably the III) dating from around 1700. I was immediately drawn to the bagpiper in one of the tapestries.

Outside, the estate stretches to 4600 acres (1861 ha), but close to the house, we explored just the parterre, the temple and the Orangery.

Felbrigg Hall is only 10 miles north from Blickling. Originally Tudor, it was added to over the centuries. But it has a distinction not held by many NT properties. The last owner . . . Robert Wyndham Ketton-Cremer (right), commonly known as the Squire, inherited Felbrigg from his father. He devoted his life to preserving Felbrigg, finally bequeathing it [and all its contents] to the National Trust in 1969.

In 1442, the Felbrigg estate was bought by the Windhams of Norfolk, and remained in their hands until 1599 when it passed to Somerset Wyndham cousins, who adopted the Norfolk spelling of their surname.

The Jacobean front we see today was constructed between 1621 and 1624.

Felbrigg remained in the Windham family until 1863 when it was bought by wealthy Norwich merchant, John Ketton.

To the right of the entrance hall is the Morning Room (formerly the kitchen) with a fine set of paintings. Across the hall, is an elegant saloon, with a decorative ceiling, and fine marble busts, two them of arch political rivals from the late 18th/early 19th centuries: Tory William Pitt the Younger (1759-1806) and Whig Charles James Fox (1749-1806).

Fox (L) and Pitt (R)

In the Cabinet Room, full of treasures from the Grand Tour accumulated by William Windham II between 1749 and 1761, the ceiling has glorious plasterwork.

But for me the real treasure can be found in one of the upper floor rooms: Chinese silk wallpaper, from the 18th century.

The estate comprises 520 acres (211 ha), and a compact walled garden close to the house, with a impressive dovecote.

9 September
We headed southeast from our holiday cottage to take in two properties: Sutton Hoo (probably one of the most famous Anglo-Saxon burial sites in the UK if not Europe), and Flatford on the banks of the River Stour where landscape painter John Constable (1776-1837) painted some of his most famous works.

At Sutton Hoo, on land above the River Deben in southeast Suffolk, there is a group of royal burial mounds which have yielded some of the most remarkable Anglo-Saxon artefacts ever discovered, dating from around 625 BCE. One in particular must have been the burial of a rich and powerful king.

In the weeks leading up to the outbreak of war at the beginning of September 1939, local archaeologist Basil Brown uncovered a remarkable find on land owned by Edith Pretty.

Carefully scaping away the layers of sandy soil, the excavation team came across the shape of an 88 ft (27 m) ship within which was a remarkable Anglo-Saxon royal burial of incomparable richness, and [which] would revolutionise the understanding of early England. The treasures from Sutton Hoo are now carefully conserved in the British Museum, and further information can be found on the museum’s website.

Replicas (beautiful in their own right) are displayed in the exhibition at Sutton Hoo. What I had not realised was that the helmet that is the iconic image of Sutton Hoo (right) was made from steel (not silver as I had imagined), and found in 100 corroded pieces. It was carefully reconstructed, enabling artisans to replicate the helmet shown here.

On reflection, however, I guess I was rather disappointed by our visit to Sutton Hoo. Don’t get me wrong. It was fascinating, and being able to look over the burial mounds site from  a tower was a bonus.

But I’d expected much more from Sutton Hoo, given the prominence it has received on the ‘heritage circuit’. I just had this feeling (which for NT properties is unusual for me) that they could have made more of the experience, and perhaps English Heritage would have made a better job of presenting Sutton Hoo’s story.

Then it was on to Flatford, a hamlet in the Dedham Vale close by East Bergholt where Constable was born. Many of his most famous landscape paintings were made around Flatford, including images of the River Stour, Willy Lott’s Cottage (as in The Hay Wain), and Flatford Mill itself.

As the day was quite overcast, and being the early afternoon, the number of visitors there was not high. I can imagine that at certain times of the year it must get awfully crowded. We were lucky. It was quite peaceful, and we could take in the atmosphere of the place. Several people were exercising their artistic talents, in attempts to interpret The Hay Wain.

10 September
Framlingham Castle was the home of the Bigod family (who came over with William the Conqueror in the Norman invasion of 1066), and the first timber fortress was constructed in 1086 by Roger Bigod, Sheriff of Norfolk. The first stone buildings date from the late 12th century.

Changing hands with, it seems, some regularity (as the Bigods were not always compliant with the king’s wishes), Framlingham eventually became the property of the Earls and Dukes of Norfolk for 400 years.

Mary Tudor was at Framlingham when she became queen in 1553.

Framlingham is unlike any other castle I have visited. Why? There never was a keep, just a curtain wall and 13 towers, enclosing a series of residential and administrative buildings. Protection was afforded to the castle by two very large defensive ditches.

In 1635, the castle was purchased by wealthy lawyer Sir Robert Hitcham, who left instructions in his will for the castle buildings to be demolished and a workhouse for local people built. The workhouse buildings are still standing.

English Heritage provides access to the castle walls, and visitors can make a complete circuit with some very fine views both internally and over the surrounding landscape that once provided a hunting park for the castle.

We really enjoyed our visit to Framlingham, and in the exhibition there’s a great animated video history of the castle (rather like the one we saw at Belsay Hall in Northumberland earlier this year).

In need of some sea air, we headed east to Dunwich Heath and Beach, just 16 miles. It’s a site of lowland heath, but when we visited the heather had more or less finished flowering. But the gorse species were still in full flower. So we made a walk of around 1½ miles, hoping to see some of the iconic birds that make Dunwich Heath their home, such as the Dartford warbler and stone curlew. It was very windy, and the only birds we encountered were a couple of pairs of stonechats.

We made it to the extensive beach. The Sizewell nuclear power stations site lies just under 3 miles south of Dunwich Heath.

11 September
This was the longest excursion we made during our holiday, a round trip of 137 miles to two proper near Cambridge: Anglesey Abbey and the Wimpole  Estate.

Anglesey Abbey, a fine country house on the eastern fringes of Cambridge, had its origins in the 12th century under Henry I. The religious establishment was dissolved during the reign of Henry VIII in the 16th century, and at the beginning of the next, the Fowkes family that had acquired it some years earlier converted it to a family home. And it passed between various families over the next three centuries or so.

Until 1926, when the estate was bought by Urban Huttleston Broughton, 1st Baron Fairchild (right) and his brother Henry. Born in Massachusetts, their father was a British engineer who main a fortune in the USA in the railways, and who married the daughter of an oil tycoon Henry Huttleston Rogers, one of the world’s richest men. Fairchild and his brother inherited a huge fortune. No wonder they could afford the Anglesey Abbey estate (with Lode Mill), and refurbish and furnish it with treasures from around the world.

Having enjoyed an excellent cup of coffee in what seemed to be quite a new Visitor Centre, we headed off into the grounds, towards Lode Mill, and the various gardens (Walled, Dahlia, and Rose) that Fairchild had laid out. I’ve never seen so many statues in one place before.

After enjoying a slow stroll there, we went indoors where only two main rooms on the ground floor were open plus the dining room. Renovations upstairs had closed that part of the house to the public.

In the Living Room there is a remarkable clock, which also featured in one of the BBC series about hidden treasures, and attributed to James Cox (1723-1800). Click on the image below to enlarge.

After lunch we headed southwest to the Wimpole Estate (comprising some 3000 acres or 1215 ha), where there has been settlements for 2000 years from Roman times.

The large mansion that we see today was begun in 1640, and has been the home of many families over the centuries.

We arrived there just before the heavens opened, and took shelter in the Visitor Centre before making our way up to the hall itself and on to the walled garden, one of the biggest and best that I have seen at many NT properties.

In the last decade of the 19th century, Wimpole was acquired by Lord Robartes, 6th Viscount Clifden, who settled the estate on his son Gerald in 1906. Also owning Lanhydrock in Cornwall (another NT property we visited in 2018), the 7th Viscount was unable to afford the upkeep of both, and put Wimpole up for sale.

From 1938 Wimpole was first rented and then bought by Captain and Mrs Bambridge (right). After the Captain’s death Mrs Bambridge continued to live at Wimpole, and bequeathed the property and contents to the NT on her death in 1976.

The house was essentially empty when the Bambridges took on Wimpole. One NT volunteer told us that just a pair of sofas in the Yellow Drawing Room were the only items left behind.

So how did the Bambridges not only acquire Wimpole but have the resources to refurbish and furnish it with some priceless treasures that fill every room? Mrs Elsie Bambridge (1896-1976) was the younger daughter of novelist and Nobel Laureate in Literature, Rudyard Kipling, and the only one of three siblings to survive beyond early adulthood. Kipling lived at Bateman’s in East Sussex that we visited in May 2019.

Just take a look at the photo album at the end of the post to appreciate just what it must have cost to turn Wimpole into the home that Mrs. Bambridge enjoyed for several decades.

12 September
This was our final excursion, to two properties, Ickworth Estate (1800 acres or 730 ha) and Melford Hall, south of Bury St Edmunds in Suffolk.

Ickworth was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086. It came into the Hervey (pronounced ‘Harvey’) family in 1460, and remained with them for the next five centuries.

In 1700, Ickworth was inherited by John Hervey who became the 1st Earl of Bristol. The house we see today was completed by Frederick, the 5th Earl (later to become the 1st Marquess of Bristol), thus fulfilling the vision of his father, the 4th Earl and Bishop of Derry in Northern Ireland. Click on the image below to enlarge.

Before heading into the house, we took a long walk down to the walled garden (where a large wild flower meadow had been sown) and then to St Mary’s Church where members of the Hervey family are buried. The 4th Marquess bequeathed Ickworth to the Treasury in 1956 in lieu of death duties (and it was then passed to the National Trust, ref. my earlier comment about the National Trust Act of 1937).

The 7th Marquess (1954-1999) inherited a fortune 1985, occupying an apartment in the house on a 99 year lease. However, he frittered his inheritance away on a very flamboyant lifestyle, to say the least, and sold the lease to the NT which now wholly owns Ickworth. The East Wing has been a luxury hotel since 2002.

Melford Hall is a 16th century mansion some 13 miles south from Ickford. It’s not known with certainty who actually built the hall. It has been the home of the distinguished naval Hyde Parker family since 1786, and the 13th Baronet and his family continue to live in the South Wing.

We enjoyed wandering round the small garden surrounding the hall (there is a larger park) before exploring just the North Wing of the house. There was a significant fire there in 1942 but that was successfully repaired without having to demolish any other parts of the building.

Famous writer, illustrator and famed mycologist Beatrix Potter was a distant relation of the Hyde Parkers, and often stayed at Melford from 1890 onwards. Her bedroom is open to view and a number of her illustrations (including one of a mouse in her bed there) are displayed around the house.

And that was the last of our visits. What an enjoyable week, getting to know a part of England that we’ve hardly visited before. All was left was the long journey home. Driving in this part of the country was no joy. Such heavy traffic and congested roads. I wasn’t looking forward to the return journey north, but as I’d already worked out a diversion around that earlier hold-up in West/North Yorkshire on the way down, I was hopeful of a trouble-free trip back home. Unfortunately that wasn’t to be the case, as you can read below.

However, do take a look at the photo albums below to appreciate the beauty of the properties we visited over six days. Truly a travel through time across the east of England.


Photo albums


The journey
Once our battery problem had been sorted, we set off around 09:45, heading south on the A19 and made good time reaching the services at Wetherby just over an hour later. A quick comfort stop and a coffee and we set off again. Just as the A1(M) downgraded to a dual carriageway A1 south of Ferrybridge we hit stationary traffic, and then took around an hour to crawl through roadworks where a bridge was being repaired on the northbound carriageway. Traffic was backed up at least 5 miles in each direction.

That was our main holdup heading south, just some slower traffic around Huntingdon and Cambridge, but not really something to write home about.

Having experienced that hold-up near Ferrybridge, I decided to look for an alternative route for the return, and found that I could join the M18 eastbound south of the roadworks, skirt Doncaster in its inner ring road, and join the M62 west which would bring us on to the A1(M) north of the roadworks.

But on the return journey we hadn’t expected the unexpected. Around 10:30, on the A1 near Stamford in Lincolnshire, we ground to a halt, and after about 10 minutes my satnav advised a diversion at the next exit, just 100 m ahead. Which I took. So did others. And we found ourselves crawling through the town center, cars parked on both sides of the street, and huge articulated trucks heading north and south trying to pass each other. The town went into gridlock, and it took more than an hour to reach the north side of the town and re-join the A1.

I later discovered that the A1 had remained closed for the next 6 hours, and the traffic backed up at least 10 miles in both directions. A woman had fallen, jumped, or been pushed (?) from a bridge, and died. The site became a potential crime scene, so the police closed the road completely, eventually redirecting traffic through other diversions. One hour through Stamford was frustrating, but nothing compared to being stuck on the A1 as so many others were.

We encountered several other serious hold-ups further north, and had to make three more diversions, arriving home just after 5 pm. What a journey, and certainly a disappointment after such a glorious week in East Anglia.


 

Two castles in one day . . .

The weather during June and July was appalling, very wet and cool. However, summer returned temporarily mid-July so we grabbed that rare opportunity to visit two castles in North Yorkshire, around 62 miles south from home.

Richmond Castle (founded in the 1070s) and 12th century Middleham Castle (just 10 miles south of Richmond) in Swaledale and Wensleydale respectively, are among the most important castles in the north of England, perhaps in the country as a whole. They simply exude history! The former was at the heart of one of the largest post-Norman Conquest estates; the other was the boyhood home and later power base of one of England’s most notorious kings.

I have to admit to being a little disappointed initially with Richmond Castle. Until viewed from the south (which we did as we headed to Middleham, but could not stop because of parking restrictions), it’s not easy at ground level to appreciate just how magnificent it must have been in its heyday. 

Richmond Castle from the south, with the residential accommodation on the right, and the later Keep behind.

Richmond Castle from the air, clearly showing the size of the enclosure which must have been full of other ‘temporary’ buildings when the castle was originally occupied. The residential accommodation is in the top right corner, with the Cockpit Garden beyond.

The original castle was built by Alan Rufus (a cousin of William I, the Conqueror) after 1071 but it wasn’t until the 12th century that the magnificent Keep was added.

An artist’s impression of how the castle must have looked not longer after its foundation in the late 11th century.

By the middle of the 16th century the castle had become derelict, but was revived centuries later and a barracks was built along the western wall in the 19th century, as well as a cell block adjoining the keep. In fact the castle was occupied during the Great War (1914-18) and housed conscientious objectors, with some kept as prisoners in the cell block.

I’m not going to describe in detail the history of Richmond Castle here. There is much more information on the English Heritage website, where you can also find a detailed site plan.

From the roof of the Keep there are magnificent views over the castle enclosure and to all points of the compass around Swaledale and the town of Richmond itself. The castle stands to one side of the market place.

The residential block (Scolland’s Hall), on the southeast corner of the enclosure is contemporaneous with the late 11th century curtain wall, but service buildings were added around 1300.

To the east of this area lies the Cockpit Garden (mainly yew shrubs and lawn) surrounded by walls built in the 12th century and some of uncertain age. English Heritage has developed an ornamental section on the north side.

On the eastern wall there is a small chapel, dedicated to St Nicholas and dating from the late 11th century.

The 19th century barracks block has long since been demolished, but a cell block adjoining the Keep, also from the 19th century still stands, and via steps on to its roof provide easier access to the first floor of the Keep rather than the very narrow and steep spiral staircase in the southwest corner of the ground floor.

There is an excellent exhibition on the floor above the visitor entrance and shop. I wish I’d taken more time to look at the various posters, especially those dealing with the incarceration of conscientious objectors in WW1. Read all about their fate on the English Heritage website

But we’d already decided to move on to Middleham Castle, and having enjoyed a picnic lunch beside the River Swale (reportedly one of the fastest-flowing rivers in England), that’s precisely what we did, crossing over the bridge that replaced an original medieval one.

Middleham Castle is much more impressive, and it’s remarkable how much has survived the ravages of the centuries.

Middleham Castle from the southwest, probably from the site of William’s Hill where an original fortification was constructed shortly after the Norman Conquest.

From the moment you walk through the impressive gatehouse, it’s impossible to ignore the grandeur of this castle, which was more a palatial residence than a fortification.

Close by the castle are the remains of an early castle, probably constructed after the Norman Conquest in 1066. Known as William’s Hill, it can easily be seen from the top of Middleham’s south-east turret as the cluster of trees on the skyline in the image below.

Construction of the stone castle began in the later 12th century, and was extended over several centuries. In 1260, the castle passed into the Neville family, one of the most powerful in the kingdom. Richard Neville (1428-1471), the 16th Earl of Warwick and 6th Earl of Salisbury came to be known as ‘Warwick the Kingmaker’ given the power and influence he wielded.

Middleham’s central keep was one of the largest of any castle in the country, and the oldest part of the castle. There are extensive basements with kitchens, above which were the main hall and family apartments. Surrounding the keep is a curtain wall, with several towers, only one of which is round, the Prince’s Tower on the southwest corner.

English Heritage has a detailed ground plan of the castle on its website. There is also a comprehensive historical account here and illustrations of how the castle must have looked in its heyday. It certainly has the feel of a family residence, a show of wealth and opulence. One feature that English Heritage highlights in its introduction and on ground plan is the large number of latrines, with some dedicated latrine towers. It seems that no-one was ever caught short at Middleham.

The original entrance to the castle was on the east side, but this was changed around 1400 to a gatehouse on the north wall. The entrance to the keep is via a modern stairway to the first floor. As I ascended those stairs I imagined what it must have been like all those centuries ago as guests arrived at the castle and were escorted to their rooms. And ascending to the top of the south-east turret gives a wonderful view over the ruins and the wider landscape of Wensleydale.

Surrounding the central keep on the north, west and south sides, are a series of chambers that must have once been accommodation for staff.

One interesting feature inside the south wall is a large circular ‘trough’, and a raised circular platform next to it. While the left hand feature in the image below is described as ‘ovens’ on the ground plan, there is no description for the trough. 

The ovens and ‘trough’ from the south-east turret.

Both date from the 16th century when, apparently, the local folk were allowed into the castle to use the ovens and the trough. I had to ask, and the best guess is that the trough was a cider press, perhaps as shown in this illustration.

Richard, Duke of Gloucester (1452-1485) was the youngest brother of Edward IV, who spent his boyhood at Middleham (along his elder brother George, who was created Duke of Clarence). The Kingmaker’s two daughters Isabel and Anne grew up at Middleham. Isabel married Clarence, and Anne married Gloucester.

Middleham became Gloucester’s northern stronghold, a base from which to gain power and eventually the crown, becoming King Richard III in June 1483. There is a commemorative statue of Richard just inside the castle.

He was defeated by Henry Tudor (who would become King Henry VII) at the Battle of Bosworth Field (the last significant battle of the Wars of the Roses) in August 1485, where he was killed. And disappeared from history so to speak until his body was discovered beneath a car park in Leicester in 2012-13.

Two castles in one day. Being just a few miles apart it was an easy excursion for us from North Tyneside, and well worth the journey south. A highly recommended day out!

Neither castle has dedicated parking. In Richmond we chose the Fosse Car Park just below the castle. I think it was £3 for 4 hours. There is parking available in the Market Place beside the castle, but I believe it’s more time limited. In Middleham, we parked in Back Street just outside the castle, where there was space for just a handful of vehicles. Parking would be trickier, I guess, on a busier day.


Photo album for Richmond Castle

Photo album for Middleham Castle

Conflict on the border

9 September 1513. A momentous day. Henry VIII’s reign hung in the balance.

King James IV of Scotland (right) who was Henry’s brother-in-law, had crossed the border with an army of some 30,000 aiming to draw Henry’s troops northwards, thereby cementing his commitment to the Auld Alliance with France where Henry was busy campaigning.

The Scots faced a smaller English army of around 20,000 under the command of the Earl of Surrey who had outflanked the Scots, taking his troops east and north hoping to cut off an escape route. Well, that was the plan.

The two armies met near the village of Branxton in north Northumberland just south of the River Tweed, the effective border between the two kingdoms.

The Scots were arrayed on Braxton Hill south of the English line on the opposite hill, and with their superior number of troops and heavy artillery (although rather slow to reload), victory seemed a certainty.

But defeat was snatched from the jaws of victory. Just like at Agincourt almost a century earlier, where the French found themselves mired in boggy ground and at the mercy of English archers, so the Scots encountered marshy ground when they descended Branxton Hill to engage the English army. Their long pikes were ineffective in the ensuing melee and no match for the English billhooks.

It is estimated that 10,000 Scots were killed and many more wounded, while the English lost only 4000. Among the Scots dead was James IV.

The Battle of Flodden Field as it came to be known was the last major battle between the English and Scots.

Earlier this past week (a glorious summer’s day, one of the best this year), Steph and I headed north (a round trip of 138 miles) to visit the battlefield and a couple of nearby castles at Etal and Norham (both now owned by English Heritage) that were briefly captured by the Scots before their defeat at Flodden.

And in the course of our journey, we travelled back almost 5000 years to a stone circle at Duddo.


Standing beside the Flodden monument (erected in 1913) and looking over the battlefield, it was hard to imagine that for a brief period 511 years ago this was the site of bloody carnage. Sown to wheat and barley today (and almost ready for harvest) this landscape was incredibly beautiful and tranquil, and with views miles over the border into Scotland.

Before leaving Branxton we visited the Flodden Visitor Centre in the village: a converted telephone kiosk!


Coat of Arms of the Manners family

Etal Castle, just under 5 miles from Flodden, was the family home of the Manners family. It dates from the 12th century, and finally abandoned in the late 16th century. You can read all about its history here.

Still standing today are the Tower House (built before 1341), parts of the Curtain Wall, and the impressive Gatehouse.

After the Battle of Flodden Field, the Scottish heavy artillery was sent to Etal Castle. An opening was made in the wall of the Tower House to store the guns in the basement. And the blocked-up opening can still be seen in the rearranged stonework outside, and in the basement.


Norham Castle, stands on the bank of the River Tweed, and commands a view of one of the fords across the river. It dates from the 12th century and was finally allowed to fall into ruin by the end of the 16th century when there was no longer a threat from the Scots from across the border.

Surprisingly perhaps, the castle was founded by Ranulph Flambard, Bishop of Durham from 1099 until 1128. Durham is known as the Land of the Prince Bishops, who wielded extraordinary power in the north of England in return for defending the border. Norham came under attack frequently and occupied over the centuries, including during the Scottish incursion in 1513. English Heritage provides a comprehensive history of the castle on its website.

The Great Tower is the part of the castle still standing, although derelict. Its height was increased several times, and this can be seen in the differences in stone color.

Some of the outer defences are still standing, as is the West Gate. Parts of the site are closed off to visitors.

And although it has been ruined for four centuries, it’s not hard to imagine just how magnificent and threatening the castle would have been in its heyday.


Almost equidistant between Etal and Norham, along a footpath in the middle of wheat fields, and about 1 mile northwest from the village of Duddo, the Duddo Stone Circle stands on a hillock overlooking the Northumberland landscape. Talk about wide open skies!

Dating from about 2000 BCE, the Stone Circle comprises five standing stones, with remains of others just showing above the surface of the soil. There is also evidence of burials there around 1700 BCE.

Two of the stones stand more than 6 feet.

Click on the image below to read more about access to the Stone Circle across private land, and the history of the stones.


This was certainly one of our more enjoyable excursions since moving to the northeast almost for years ago. This was the second time we’d toured this area of north Northumberland (the first time in 1998). And it won’t be our last.

I have posted all the photographs in an online album. Just click on the image below to view those.